Turkmenistan – part 2

Visited: September 2024

Duration of visit: 5 days

Capital city: Ashgabat

Population: 6.4 million (2024)

Estimated reading time: 14 minutes

• Cruising around empty streets of a would-be smart city Arkadag.
• Trying to understand the purpose of marble white buildings in ghost capital Ashgabat.
• In search of people in Ashgabat.
• Siting on the edge of Darvaza Gas Crater and staring at the flaming fangs that have been blazing from the Gates of Hell for decades.

After crossing the Caspian Sea by ferry from Alat port in Baku to Turkmenbashi and continuing overland toward the east, visiting Yangykala Canyon, Balkanabat and Nohur, I arrived to the capital Ashgabat and later reached the main Turkmen landmark, The Gates of Hell, in Darvaza.

In this article I describe the following topics of my trip to Turkmenistan – part 2: smart city Arkadag, spotless, white capital Ashgabat, stunning landmarks honoring Turkmen leaders, Ashgabat at night, The Gates of Hell in Darvaza.

More articles about my adventures in Turkmenistan are available here:

On the way to Ashgabat, we made a detour to the new city of Akadag, a so-called smart city. Our driver explained us in advance about a new urban zone, about 30 kilometers from the capital, which has been under construction since 2019.

An intelligent transportation network will control the movement of vehicles, while people will be monitored through widespread CCTV cameras. The city’s residential areas will be equipped with advanced home automation systems, enabling to monitor the usage of electricity, water and gas through their smartphones. Private cars will have to be parked on the outskirts of the city, as only public transportation will be allowed in the city.

At the time, president Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow envisioned a sprawling city center that would include a government complex, high-rise apartment blocks, modern medical facilities, shopping malls, financial institutions, a performing arts venue, a public library, an art museum, a public park, a stadium and even facilities for horse breeding.

It was a mind-blowing experience visiting this project five years later in September 2024, when billions of dollars have been spent, most of the building finished, wide roads perfectly shaped and recreational areas exemplarily arranged.

There was not a single person, car, bus or action. Only seldom workers in charge of maintenance were walking around this ghost, white city, which spans over an area of more than 1,000 hectares, capable of housing over 70,000 people.

I asked my driver, if he was interested in living and working in Arkadag. He convincedly answered positively, but unfortunately, he doesn’t qualify due to lack of education, connections and current income. Nevertheless, from other sources I heard that the residents of Ashgabat eligible to get housing in Arkadag are not enthusiastic to make the move because of the restrictions, surveillance and distance from the capital.

We drove around, observing climatized bus stops, a modern stadium, luxury villas and apartment buildings, before leaving through the main gates, where a statue of the president is welcoming the new residents.

It is hard to say whether this project of former president Berdimuhamedow, whose nickname is the same as the name of the city – Arkadag, would fulfil the futuristic expectations of its founder and become a living city with soul, offering high-quality standard of living to its future residents or it will remain a ghost town, where luxury buildings remain uninhabited.

Serdar Berdimuhamedow, the current president of Turkmenistan and son of the former leader, has not provided extensive information regarding the future stages of development.

Although, due to its location north of the Kopet Dag Mountains and close to the Iranian border, Ashgabat is known for its desert climate with high summer temperatures above 40⁰C, the weather was pleasant during my visit. Blue sky, warm days with the temperatures in the low 30°s and refreshing nights allowed me to explore the city during the day and extend the visit after 11:00pm, when, in principle, the official nighttime curfew starts.

Currently, the curfew from 11:00pm to 6:00am only refers to the operation of restaurants, bars and other commercial areas. Therefore, we were free to cruise around the city at night without restrictions, but always accompanied by the driver.

I immediately noticed some unusual features in The City of White Marble: exclusively white buildings, primarily white cars (recently silver and gold cars are also allowed), almost zero traffic, spotless clean public areas and hardly any people.

The streets, buildings, and vehicles in the city are all kept clean to match the shiny marble appearance. There are strict regulations and rules with heavy fines against pollution, littering, speed limits and improper photography, which assure the perfect backdrop to the Turkmen capital.

The capital of Turkmenistan, is a remarkable fusion of magnificence, uniqueness, and intrigue. It has been largely reconstructed following a catastrophic earthquake in 1948, evolving into a city that the president of Turkmenistan has called a showcase city, celebrated for its opulent statues, contemporary designs, and expansive avenues lined with marble, which are constantly quiet.

The City of White Marble is recognized globally by the Guinness World Records for the highest concentration of white marble buildings in the world, with over 500 structures constructed from this luxurious material, covering an area of 4.5 million square meters. The preference for white marble in Ashgabat is intentional; it represents neutrality, a core value in Turkmenistan’s approach to foreign policy.

The official explanation to justify the use of this particular material is the following: White marble not only makes the buildings look elegant, it also reflects the sunlight, thus cooling down the walls in the summer, while in the winter and in a gloomy weather it lightens your mood.

Visitors often wonder where all the people are when they see photos of Turkmenistan’s white-marbled capital. My experience confirmed it; the new Ashgabat during my visit appeared to be empty at any time of the day. The city is filled with grand buildings, marble streets, open spaces, and water features, but it is empty of people. When I asked the driver, where the people were, I was told that everyone is at work or at school. But no one appeared on the streets even before or after work.

When we were cruising the city at night, there were hardly any cars. Late in the evening we spotted a group of four young people in the park with panoramic view over the city. Nearby, about two dozen men posed with a bride and groom on the street in front of Bagt Koshgi Monument. When my friend approached them and took a picture of them a big dispute broke out, as his photography was said to bring misfortune to the couple.

Beside the Guinness World Records for the highest concentration of white marble buildings in the world, Ashgabat also boasts some other records:

… the largest indoor ferris wheel, standing at over 47 meters; the biggest horse head structure, the largest architectural star and the largest fountain complex, the Oguzkhan Fountain.

There are numerous statues and monuments around Ashgabat, which are visible from a distance and seldom visited by any other person, when I was approaching them. Most of them are dedicated to the first or the second president of Turkmenistan or celebrate their beliefs and teachings.

The Monument of Neutrality is a three-legged arch, topped with a gold-plated statue of Niyazov, is symbolizing Turkmenistan’s policy of neutrality. It stood in the downtown until 2018, when it was dismantled and moved to the current location. In 2015, the UN General Assembly adopted the Resolution Permanent Neutrality of Turkmenistan, by which the international community supported the so-called peace-loving policy of Turkmenistan.

A rather peculiar decision of the Turkmen government, that has been in practice used to avoid joining multilateral organizations, particularly security organizations. At the same time Turkmenistan has been practically shut off from the outside world.

The government in Ashgabat has enjoyed luxurious seclusion while the people have been sheltered, getting only limited updates on global events and always being shown a polished and excessively positive perspective on their own country’s situation, despite being able to easily spot the lies being spread by the official media.

The Ruhnama Monument worships a book written by Niyazov that is a combination of spiritual guidance, personal memoir, and national epic. The Ruhnama was a central part of education, and it was supposedly compulsory reading not just in schools but also for obtaining a driving license.

The Independence Monument of Turkmenistan is one of the largest and most lavish examples globally. Spanning over 80,000 square meters, this monument, inspired by traditional Turkmen tents, is located at the heart of a beautifully landscaped park, featuring many water fountains and pools, which were not working during my visit.

Around the monument’s focal point, there are 27 statues honoring Turkmen heroes and a golden statue of Turkmenistan’s long-running dictator Niyazov, which stands in front of a dome, with a 91-meter high tower that resembles a minaret extending from its summit.

Alem Cultural and Entertainment Center was opened in 2012 and it still holds the World Guinness Record for the largest indoor Ferris wheel. Its appearance resembles a giant eight-pointed star, a common motif in Turkmen textiles and architecture. The Ferris wheel, housed in a 47-meter tall glass and white steel casing, serves as a bright symbol of progress and amusement in the heart of Turkmenistan. This is the promotional wording for the attraction.

I visited it at approximately 1:00pm and I was the first person to arrive that day. To my surprise, the whole entertainment center was empty.

Perfectly designed ticket booths didn’t operate, lights at children’s playgrounds were off and broken toilets were only half-functioning. I encountered the employees, who called for a worker to start the mighty wheel only for me and my friend.

Unbelievable! A 90-million-dollar investment, reminiscent of the London Eye, was operating just for the two of us.

The perspective from the top was nothing special, as the massive structure of ferris wheel blocked the view and made it impossible to take nice photos. When I tried to tip the operator, he insisted that I pay the official price (5.00 US$ for two people), even though he couldn’t issue me a ticket due to the malfunctioning operating system.

Visible from a distance, due to its location at the top of the hill, Yyldyz Hotel could easily represent another example of an inappropriate money spending. I find it hard to imagine these facilities, offering more than 150 luxury rooms, is occupied, as there was not a single vehicle driving or parking on the intact three lane road which surrounds it, except for the bus that transports the workers. Three bus stations, equipped with air conditioners, televisions and luxury seats were short of passengers in the afternoon sun.

A flamboyant Monument to the Constitution raising up as the second highest building in Ashgabat, was constructed to mark the 20^th anniversary of Turkmenistan’s independence in 2011. The monument is 185 meters tall including the platform (refer to the 185 countries that have recognized Turkmenistan’s neutral status).

Three-level foundation is 27 meters high and it is constructed from eight-point Turkmen stars that ascend in three tiers at the core, alongside a 91-meter-tall spire positioned at the pinnacle of this structure.

These dimensions mark the anniversary of 27.10.1991, the date when Turkmenistan declared its independence.

The eleven-storey building, called Bagt Koshgi – is officially used as a wedding palace. Palace of Happiness is a three-storey structure, each side of which has the shape of an eight-pointed star. A cube rising above large pillars forms its upper stage and includes a sphere with a diameter of 32 meters – the symbolic planet Earth with the image of Turkmenistan.

The outside splendor is supplemented with marriage registration rooms, wedding halls, including the Golden Hall for weddings, banquet rooms, shops and cafes providing all the necessary items for unforgettable weddings.

I managed to persuade the security guard to let me in the only accessible indoor facilities: two wedding dress shops, where saleswomen were bored in idleness. The guy in charge of cleaning proudly explained to me how luxurious were a few weddings, taking place every month, while I thought that even Las Vegas could envy such facilities, completely underused in Ashgabat.

Arkadag Monument celebrates the second president of Turkmenistan – Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow. The president is riding a golden horse, an Akhalteke of course, while the horse is riding on a white marble wave!

State Museum of Turkmenistan was the only building that I visited inside. Even though I am not a big fan of museums, the exhibition was interesting enough to walk around for an hour, learning about the development of Turkmenistan from ancient states to the modern independent nation.

A special section dedicated to the current president Serdar Berdimuhamedow carefully presents his inspired biography, indisputable ability to lead the nation, his desire to continue the great projects of his predecessors, and the perfectionist salute pose as he bends his right arm greeting the people.

In front of the museum stands the country’s tallest flagpole, raising at 133 meters, which was the tallest in the world until 2010. Two soldiers guard the flag 24 hours a day, while their superior chases away all miscreants who would like to take a close-up photo.

In Ashgabat things change after the sun sets. Numerous structures and landmarks are actually shown in a new perspective thanks to the vibrant LED lighting that surrounds them. It is amazing to see the vibrant display against the night sky, which highlights the city’s love of grandeur.

The city’s lighting allows seldom visitors enjoy its artificial attractions for longer and offers a striking example of creative and technological innovation.

Nonetheless, it is simple to observe the guidelines, restrictions and planning. All of the signage is only available in a small selection of fonts and limited to four colors. Even though descriptions of restaurants, bars and shopping mall appear on the top of perfectly illuminated buildings, I doubt that there are any businesses operating indoors at all. The movement of people around the city at night is similar to daytime. Close to none.

Although I visited the main landmarks of Ashgabat, the time I spent in Ashgabat was too short. I wish I had more time, not only to visit the Russian Bazar, Nisa fortress, Ruhy Mosque and Mausoleum of the first president of Turkmenistan, but also the old Ashgabat where people actually live. Maybe this could be a good reason to return one day and follow up the development in this curious country.

Namely, Ashgabat is divided into two parts: the old and the new city. I might also describe them as the city of the living and the dead city. Although the driver promised us a tour of the place where he lives, but there was not enough time to see the seemingly lively part of the capital.

After driving almost 300 kilometers, mostly on bad roads, we had to pull off road to reach our final destination that day: The Gates of Hell in Darvaza. It was late and almost dark, just after the sunset. The driver navigated his way over the soft sand and left us next to the Darvaza Gas Crater, before he parked in the surrounding campground, where we were going to spend the night in a yurt.

The climate was much more pleasant than in Yangykala Canyon, the darkness didn’t have any negative impact on the activities. The night is actually the time when the crater with flaming gases becomes much more visible than during the day.

In 1971, engineers were reportedly drilling for oil when a rig malfunctioned and inadvertently punctured a massive underground natural gas cavern. This led to the creation of a large crater that measures 70 meters wide and 30 meters deep.

Geologists set fire to it in order to contain the methane gas from spreading further. The sinkhole has been continuously burning ever since.

The sole objective of visiting the Gates of Hell is to approach the rim as much as possible, without falling in the carter, to observe the flames, feel the heat and enjoy the spectacle. Depending on how strong the wind is, the heat from the crater can be blown directly into the faces of unsuspecting tourists. The metal bars of the drilling platform remain suspended, a reminder of the once active gas harvesting. They warn tourists tempted to venture towards the Gates of Hell to proceed with caution.

I spent hours around the crater in the evening and repeated the activity at the sunrise next morning. It is a unique place, where a combination of human ambitions and nature strength easily shows the inferiority of human beings.

In January 2022, the supreme leader appeared on a state-run TV channel, urging officials to find a solution to extinguish the fire of the large burning crater. There seem to be environmental reasons for the closure, since the crater leaks methane gas, which is damaging to the atmosphere; additionally, the gas has negative health effects for nearby residents.

However, he also pointed out that the country has been losing valuable natural resources for which they could get significant profits and use them for improving the well-being of our people. A cynical statement compared to the vast amounts of money spent on strengthening his cult or building useless premises instead of improving the quality of life of Turkmen people.