Kyrgyzstan

Visited: August 2021

Duration of visit: 2 weeks

Capital city: Bishkek

Population: 6.5 million (2021)

Estimated reading time: 15 minutes

• Easy going capital Bishkek: a combination of socialist architecture, vast green areas and wide boulevards.
• A shared-taxi ride from Bishkek to Toktogul Lake, passing the 3,586 meters high Tör-Ashuu Pass.
• Osh animal market, where cows, ships and horses are traded.
• Swimming in the second-largest saline Lake Issyk Kul, surrounded by snow-capped peaks.
• Horseback riding and trekking trip to Altyn-Arashan.
• Eagle hunting demonstration in Bokonbayevo.
• Hospitable and helpful people surprised with fluidity of my Russian.

My preparations for visiting Kyrgyzstan consisted of much more than an average few days research on history, culture, attractions and usual backpackers’ options to explore a country. Although a mix of Kyrgyz and Russian language is spoken, I decided that I wouldn’t go to Kyrgyzstan and other Stan countries without learning the basics of Russian language.

Covid-19 years 2020 and 2021 turned out perfect to master my Russian skills and improve the knowledge to medium level, which enabled me to communicate quite fluently with locals.

Russian originates from the Slavic language roots, which are also the basis for Slovenian, my first mother tongue. However, I have found the Cyrillic writing system to be a significant challenge, which is the main reason why my learning and understanding process was slower than expected.

In certain isolated areas, I found that my Russian language skills were actually more advanced than those of the locals.

The purpose of visiting Kyrgyzstan was not only exploring the cultural and natural beauty of the country, but also understanding people lifestyle, memories of Soviet times and religious impact on everyday life.

During my stay with a hospitable family in Bishkek, I soon recognized that I was capable of discussing nearly any subject in Russian. The housewife was only 27, but already taking care of three young kids and expecting the forth in autumn. Together with her mother, she was preparing pickled fruits and vegetables for the winter, taking care of kids and chatting about many topics with me.

Hours and hours of cutting, cooking and peeling of tomato, cucumbers, paprika and various fruits resulted into sealed pots of compote, sour pickled vegetables and fruits puree. During the winter season, temperatures drop significantly and what is better than staying in a warm apartment, enjoying delicious food and drinking hot green tea.

Throughout the day, the husband was occupied with work, returning in the evening to participate in our conversations. The day tends to be long, and the planned activities may not always follow a standard routine. It is not unusual for a family to enjoy a late-night walk to a nearby park with their young children. It is very safe and much quieter at that time.

Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, is a nice city to keep anybody busy for a few days.

Splendid socialist buildings in the city center are maintained in perfect conditions, the famous Osh Bazaar continues the trade as in the old time, when Bishkek was an important trade point on the Silk Road. A large open-air bazaar sells a wide variety of tasty food, clothes, household products and more. I stocked up with a mix of herbal tea and nuts for the rest of the trip.

The central square of the city, Ala-Too, was built in 1984 to celebrate the 60^th anniversary of the Kirgiz Soviet Socialist Republic. At that time, it was named Lenin Square, decorated with a statue of Lenin.

After the independence in 1991, the square was renamed and the statue was replaced by one of the biggest and most prominent statues of Manas – an epic warrior who wrote the longest epic poem in the world. Still today, the Lenin Statue stands in a park behind the State History Museum, which was, unfortunately, closed during my visit.

Another significant and striking memorial is the vast Victory Square, characterized by its Soviet-style design.  Constructed in 1985, it commemorates the 40^th anniversary of the end of World War II and the victory over Nazi Germany. The monument in the center of the square represents a yurt curving above an eternal flame, with a statue of a woman located underneath who is waiting for her husband to return home from the war. A yurt is a traditional Kazakh round tent.

Food in Kyrgyzstan is based on meat, fresh fruits and vegetables. As a vegetarian, I am not in a position to comment on the meat.

Many remarks and constant suggestions from my hosts that even vegetarians taste and appreciate delicious meat dishes in Kyrgyzstan, made me think that the meat was good.

While I may struggle to assess the quality of meat, I can definitely evaluate fruits, vegetables and all-around present bread. Any fruit or vegetable I tried had a delicious and fresh taste. The natural look and wide range show that the country has different climate conditions and organic growth is a norm, not an option. No pesticides are used and prices are ridiculously low.

In Kyrgyzstan, bread serves not only as a food item but also as a symbol of pride and display. While it comes in various sizes and shapes, I would dare to say that the range of flavors is limited. Most are white flour based, some are softened with more milk or butter, while the sweet version has sugar added.

Photogenic exhibitions of round loaves on markets, along the streets or in bazaars constantly captured my attention. I never managed to eat more than half of the smallest piece in one shot.

The combination of freshly baked bread with local butter and green tea is delightful at any hour of the day.

Talking with people in Bishkek, especially with young ones, it soon became clear that they were extremely disappointed with corruption and inefficiency in the government sector.

When everyone complains regarding bribery across various sectors, including education, business, and bureaucratic processes, it is obvious that the existing system is ineffective.

A constant topic was always money, salaries and possible incomes in foreign countries.

Young people are not as much complaining about being poor, rather they are aware of more favorable opportunities available overseas and are eager to explore them. Although Kyrgyz are historically, culturally and language-wise more connected with Turkey, they dream of emigrating to Europe or rich Asian countries.

Toktogul Reservoir was my stopover between Bishkek and Osh. While not being the most spectacular, and beside artificial lake, a drive through the mountainous scenery, along yurts, hordes of horses, ships and local farmer markets was spectacular. It was my first opportunity to get in touch with the famous Kyrgyz countryside and mad drivers whose goal is to arrive first.

Very little plants or trees, particularly at higher elevations, do not diminish the allure of the countryside.  On the contrary, the majestic mountains, partially covered with snow, the continuous flow of rivers attracting wildlife, and the minor hills along the winding roads, justify the narratives about the legendary Kyrgyz nature.

Osh – the second biggest city in Kyrgyzstan, has more in common with the conservative Islamic Fergana Valley, mostly located in Uzbekistan than with industrialized Soviet Bishkek. People are hospitable as anywhere else around, while the region has a more classic Central Asian feeling than in the north. I immediately noticed a strong Uzbek presence; the standard of the Russian language was on much lower level.

The five-peaked rocky crag in the middle of the city was an easy challenge in the early afternoon sun. A Muslim place of pilgrimage, where Prophet Mohamed prayed as well, has plenty of symbolical and spiritual meaning for Muslims, but the lovely central bazaar and Osh Animal Market, on the outskirts of the city, called more of my attention.

Cows, ships and some horses were inspected, negotiated and finally driven away by new owners. When the deal is closed, buyers and sellers shake hands in a particular way, pay the agreed price and the trade is done. The whole transaction is rather quick and efficient.

Jayma Bazaar, one of the largest markets in Central Asia, serves as a central trading trade hub for a wide array of goods: fruits, vegetables, meat, bread, traditional hats, knives, smites and more. Delicious yellow figs, peaches, bread and restaurants along the river especially impressed me.

I discovered a hairdresser who was exceptionally pleased to provide a haircut. The official price was under one dollar. While thinking how can he survive with charging so little, he was showing me photos of his daughter’s previous day wedding, where over 400 guests were feasting with food and tea in his huge house.

The extreme contrast between the irrationally low pricing of his services and his substantial wealth raises questions that challenge my comprehension of the principles of market economics. Soviet influence, family and clan ties which, combined with connections and corruption in certain cases, can create disproportional wealth for privileged people or families.

“Have you been to Issyk Kul?”

This was the inevitable question of every person that I met in Kyrgyzstan. After the first part of exploring the western side of the country, I continued to Uzbekistan and flew back to Bishkek in order to travel around the Eastern Kyrgyzstan, where the famous lake is located.

The seventh-deepest lake in the world and the second-largest saline lake after the Caspian Sea.

Lake Issyk Kul represents typical Kyrgyzstan, where not only foreign, but also local people find tranquility, enjoy natural beauty and local culture that hasn’t changed for centuries.

It is remarkable to observe how significant nature is to the people of Kyrgyzstan. The Warm lake is located at a lofty elevation of 1,607 meters above sea level. It never really warms up, neither freezes during the cold winters. The climate is mountainous and maritime at the same time, beneficial to health and allows to attune your rhythms with nature, plunge into an atmosphere of harmony, tranquility and serenity.

I embarked on a boat excursion that took us several kilometers away from the coast, where the most courageous among us jumped into the cold water for a swim. I was going to do the same, but they didn’t let me swim without a life jacket. I was trying to be nice:

“I am a good swimmer. I don’t need this kind of protection!”

The captain disregarded my appeals.

I guess there were tragic events in the past, when drunk and confident visitors overestimated their abilities. Instead of swimming I fully enjoyed the view of the surrounding Tian Shan mountains, which feature several peaks exceeding 7,000 meters in elevation.

After returning back to mainland I rested on a small sandy beach in Cholpon Ata. Swimming provided a refreshing experience; the atmosphere was calm and my new companions were friendly and curious.

The garden of my basic guesthouse offered unbelievable amounts of plums and apples on regular sized trees. The cordial owner invited me to be her guest and I had a great conversation with visitors from Bishkek who came to enjoy nature over the weekend.

My next stop, near the eastern tip of Lake Issyk Kul, was the fourth largest city of Kyrgyzstan – Karakol – promoted as a gateway to adventure, culture and cuisine, located on the crossroads of Central Asia. A kind of backpackers’ paradise that offers a range of open-air activities: hiking, horse-trekking, food tasting, climbing and more.

I settled down in a hostel, where the cheapest accommodation was available in a yurt that was raised up in the central courtyard.

A well-organized Tourist Center in downtown offered me information and contacts for all activities. Since most of the tour operators, guides, hotels and trekking organizers are member of the local tourist organization, it is very easy to find the information on one single spot.

My knee was still not completely recovered from a meniscus injury. Thus, I decided to ride a horse up to the mountains, where I could spend a night in a traditional yurt, taste local food, relax in thermal water and explore the stunning natural scenery.

The next morning a Swiss cyclist joined me for an overnight horse hike to the Altyn-Arashan area. The day before, I organized all the details directly with the horse owners and guides. We met our guide in the outskirts of Karakol, near Ak Su village from where a step trail leads along the river uphill.

The road quickly turned into a cart path that looked impassable. The wonderful wooded green landscape, pleasant sunshine and peace were interrupted every now and then by a barking dog protecting a farm, where, in basic conditions, sheep are raised.

Following a brief pause for a snack, the trail transformed into a more serpentine and inclined route. The horses were successfully avoiding all the obstacles, when suddenly I heard the rumble of a car engine. I couldn’t believe that any kind of jeep, let alone an old Soviet vehicle, similar to a mini-van, could drive through such a bad road. It slowly moved up the bumpy path, successfully overcoming all barriers.

We arrived at the camp, where we set up the yurt in the late afternoon. While the driver was preparing dinner, I soaked in the nearby thermal waters. What a blessing!

Tired and dirty, I just stepped into the hot water poured into a small pool. As night fell, the cold hit immediately. I put on all the clothes I had with me, covered myself with a warm blanket and watched the stars in the sky long into the night.

The return the next day was easier, faster and more comfortable going downhill. I was pleased to have visited the mountainous region of Kyrgyzstan despite my limited mobility.

I found a great place to stay with a local family in Bokonbayevo. A sleepy village without any impressive sights, but a perfect starting point to a nearby canyon or an eagle hunting demonstration. I stayed in a simple guesthouse, where a small room with basic facilities was compensated with a warm welcome by host Alibek, his wife and daughter, who cooked for me, supported me with advices on local logistics and connected me with a golden eagle hunter.

My first stop was the fairytale canyon called Skazka. It was easy to catch a local bus, which dropped me off on the main road to walk the last part up the valley. The heat was bearable, walking in the sand smooth, random cars driving in the opposite direction.

The colorful, rocky landscape with funny structures, exhibiting a spectrum of colors ranging from yellow, red and orange, is truly magnificent.

The moon-like landscape was formed as a result of thousands of years of ice, water and wind erosion that transformed hilly creations carved out of the rock into sculptures and formations rising out to the sky.

There are little plants since the lower areas are covered with sand. I walked around to different viewpoints, until I realized there was not a single soul around me. From the highest point, a spectacular view over the whole canyon, with Issyk Kul lake in the background, opens.

I walked back to the main road and continued to the beach. The weather at the end of summer was sunny and warm. Just perfect for the last refreshing swim in the lake. People were right, Issyk Kul lake, with its surrounding landscape is unique.

Returning to Bokonbayevo turned out to be even easier. I decided to hitchhike.

Only three cars passed by, before a comfortable SUV Lexus picked me up. I got into an interesting conversation with the easy-going head of a friendly family. The time passed quickly and I again learned something new about Kyrgyzstan.

Hunting with Golden Eagles is an ancient Central Asian tradition that has been in practice for thousand years by nomads in order to acquire food and furs in the harsh winter months. Since ancient times, it was believed that the hunting bird is the most loyal and reliable assistant. For that reason, eagles and falcons have been used for hunting since 10^th century, a long time before the appearance of firearms.

Today, there is no real need to practice eagle hunting for survival, but Kyrgyzstan is one of the few countries that still follows some traditions of the nomadic civilization and the areas of Issyk Kul serve as an ideal setting for observing demonstrations of eagle hunters.

Through a series of phone calls and messages, I was able to connect with Saltanat, who greeted me in front of the guest house, dressed in traditional clothing and wearing ak-kalpak on his head. The elongated cap is formed of four pieces of white wool felt sewn together.

In the back of our car the mighty bird was covered with a blanket, while a rabbit moved between my legs. We drove in an old Russian car for half an hour outside of the town where the mountain range starts.

Berkuchi – eagle hunters – catch eagles when they are still young and train them carefully for a period of up to 5 years. Via an extensive daily training process, the bird and the hunter develop a strong connection through which Golden Eagles obey the call and voice of their berkuchi, even though they can also recognize other human voices.

People: very friendly.
Highlights: amazing nature, lakes, mountains, trekking and horse-riding possibilities.
Food: meat, meat and more meat. Occasionally good fish. Picturesque bread. Fruits and vegetables – delicious and organic.
Tourists: Нет (0). I hardly encountered any foreign visitors outside of Karakol.
The cost of travel: remarkably low.
Covid-19: Что то? What is this? Not existing. No masks. No restrictions.
Comfort: ride in a tremendous Lexus 4WD at 160 kmph. 1$ per hour.
Capital city – Bishkek: beautiful Soviet architecture, colorful market and Lenin statue.
Communication in Russian: очень хорошо (very good).
Communication in English: very little, because hardly anyone can speak it.
Would I recommend to visit Kyrgyzstan? Absolutely yes.