Kyrgyzstan

My Kyrgyzstan travel summary:

Visited: August 2021

Duration of visit: 14 days

Capital city: Bishkek

Population: 6.5 million (2021)

Kyrgyzstan travel blog reading time: 14 minutes

• A fascinating combination of socialist architecture, vast green areas and wide boulevards in Bishkek.
• A shared-taxi ride to Toktogul Lake, crossing the 3,586-meter-high Tör-Ashuu Pass.
• Osh animal market, where cows, ships and horses are traded.
• Swimming in Issyk Kul, surrounded by snow-capped peaks.
• Horseback riding and trekking trip to Altyn-Arashan.
• Eagle hunting demonstration in Bokonbayevo.
• Hospitable and helpful people surprised with fluidity of my Russian.

My preparations for Kyrgyzstan travel adventure went far beyond the usual few days of research on history, culture, attractions, and typical backpacker options.

Even though both Kyrgyz and Russian are spoken, I decided I wouldn’t visit Kyrgyzstan or other Stan-countries without first learning the basics of Russian.

Covid-19 years 2020 and 2021 turned out perfect to master my Russian skills and improve the knowledge to medium level, which enabled me to communicate quite fluently with locals.

Russian originates from the Slavic language roots, which are also the basis for Slovenian, my mother tongue. However, the Cyrillic writing system was a major challenge, slowing my learning and understanding more than I had expected.

My purpose of visiting Kyrgyzstan was not only exploring the cultural and natural beauty of the country, but also understanding people lifestyle, memories of Soviet times and religious impact on everyday life.

During my stay with a hospitable family in Bishkek, I quickly realized I could discuss almost any topic in Russian. The housewife was only 27, but already taking care of three young kids and expecting the forth in autumn. Together with her mother, she prepared pickled fruits and vegetables, cared for the children, and chatted with me.

Hours and hours of cutting, cooking and peeling of tomato, cucumbers, paprika and various fruits resulted into sealed pots of compote, sour pickled vegetables and fruits puree. During the winter season, temperatures drop significantly. There is nothing better than staying in a warm apartment, enjoying delicious food, and drinking hot green tea.

Throughout the day, the husband was occupied with work, returning in the evening to participate in our conversations. I learned that the days are long, and planned activities often don’t follow a standard routine.

It was not unusual for a family to enjoy a late-night walk to a nearby park with their young children. It was very safe and much quieter at that time.

Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, kept me busy and curious for several days. I loved exploring its mix of interesting places and trying out different things to do around the city.

The famous Osh Bazaar continues the trade as in the old time, when Bishkek was an important trade point on the Silk Road. A large open-air bazaar sells a wide variety of tasty food, clothes, household products and more. I stocked up with a mix of herbal tea and nuts for the rest of the trip.

Splendid socialist buildings in the city center are maintained in perfect conditions.

The central square of the city, Ala-Too, was built in 1984 to celebrate the 60^th anniversary of the Kirgiz Soviet Socialist Republic. At that time, it was named Lenin Square, decorated with a statue of Lenin.

After the independence in 1991, the square was renamed and the statue was replaced by one of the biggest and most prominent statues of Manas – an epic warrior who wrote the longest epic poem in the world. Still today, the Lenin Statue stands in a park behind the State History Museum, which was, unfortunately, closed during my visit.

Another significant and striking memorial is the vast Victory Square, characterized by its Soviet-style design.  Constructed in 1985, it commemorates the 40^th anniversary of the end of World War II and the victory over Nazi Germany. The monument in the center of the square represents a yurt curving above an eternal flame. Beneath it stands a statue of a woman waiting for her husband to return home from the war.

A yurt is a traditional Kazakh round tent, and I saw them throughout the country in many different forms, sizes, and settings.

Food in Kyrgyzstan is based on meat, fresh fruits and vegetables. As a vegetarian, I am not in a position to comment on the meat.

My hosts’ constant remarks and suggestions that even vegetarians enjoy Kyrgyz meat made me think the meat must be good.

While I may struggle to assess the quality of meat, I can definitely evaluate fruits, vegetables and all-around present bread. Every fruit or vegetable I tasted was fresh, delicious and cheap. Their natural appearance and wide variety show the country’s favorable climate and organic growth as the norm.

In Kyrgyzstan, bread serves not only as a food item but also as a symbol of pride and display. While it comes in various sizes and shapes, I would dare to say that the range of flavors is limited.

Most are white flour based, some are softened with more milk or butter, while the sweet version has sugar added. The combination of freshly baked bread, local butter, and green tea was delightful at any time of the day.

Photogenic exhibitions of round loaves on markets, along the streets or in bazaars constantly captured my attention.

Talking with people in Bishkek, especially the youth, I quickly realized they were very disappointed with government corruption and inefficiency.

When everyone complains about bribery in education, business, and bureaucracy, it’s clear that the existing system is ineffective.

Young people aren’t so much complaining about being poor; they’re aware of better opportunities abroad and eager to explore them. Although historically and culturally close to Turkey, many Kyrgyz dream of emigrating to Europe or wealthy Asian countries.

Toktogul Reservoir was my stopover between Bishkek and Osh. While not being the most spectacular, and beside artificial lake, a drive through the mountainous scenery, along yurts, hordes of horses, ships and local farmer markets was spectacular. It was my first opportunity to get in touch with the famous Kyrgyz countryside and mad drivers whose goal is to arrive first.

Very little plants or trees, particularly at higher elevations, do not diminish the allure of the countryside.  On the contrary, the majestic mountains, partially covered with snow, the continuous flow of rivers attracting wildlife, and the minor hills along the winding roads, justify the narratives about the legendary Kyrgyz nature.

Osh, Kyrgyzstan’s second-largest city, resembles the conservative Islamic Fergana Valley more than industrialized, Soviet-style Bishkek. People are as hospitable as anywhere else, while the region has a more traditional Central Asian atmosphere than the north.

I immediately noticed a strong Uzbek presence, and the level of Russian was much lower.

First, I visited the central landmark of Osh, Sulaiman-Too Sacred Mountain (Solomon’s Throne). The five-peaked rocky crag in the middle of the city was an easy challenge in the early afternoon heat. A Muslim place of pilgrimage, where Prophet Mohamed prayed as well, has plenty of symbolical and spiritual meaning for Muslims.

The lively Jayma Bazaar and Osh Animal Market, on the outskirts, were my favorite places to visit in Osh.

New owners inspected, negotiated, and finally drove away cows, sheep, and some horses. When the deal is closed, buyers and sellers shake hands in a particular way, pay the agreed price and the trade is done. The whole transaction is rather quick and efficient.

Jayma Bazaar, one of the largest markets in Central Asia, serves as a central trading trade hub for a wide array of goods: fruits, vegetables, meat, bread, traditional hats, knives, smites and more. Delicious yellow figs, peaches, bread and restaurants along the river especially impressed me.

In a small shop at the bazaar, I found a hairdresser who was exceptionally happy to give me a haircut. The official price was less than one dollar. While I wondered how he could survive while charging so little, he showed me photos from his daughter’s wedding the day before. More than 400 guests were enjoying food and tea at his huge house.

The extreme contrast between the irrationally low pricing of his services and his substantial wealth raises questions that challenge my comprehension of the principles of market economics. Soviet influence, family and clan ties which, combined with connections and corruption in certain cases, can create disproportional wealth for privileged people or families.

“Have you been to Issyk Kul?”

This was the inevitable question of every person that I met in Kyrgyzstan.

After exploring the western part of the country, I continued to Uzbekistan. Later, I flew back to Bishkek to continue Kyrgyzstan travel journey in the east, where the famous lake is located.

The seventh-deepest lake in the world and the second-largest saline lake after the Caspian Sea.

Lake Issyk Kul represents typical Kyrgyzstan, where not only foreign, but also local people find tranquility, enjoy natural beauty and local culture that hasn’t changed for centuries.

It is remarkable to observe how significant nature is to the people of Kyrgyzstan.

The Warm lake is located at a lofty elevation of 1,607 meters above sea level. It never really warms up, neither freezes during the cold winters. The climate is mountainous and maritime at the same time, beneficial to health and allows to attune your rhythms with nature, plunge into an atmosphere of harmony, tranquility and serenity.

I embarked on a boat excursion that took us several kilometers away from the coast, where the most courageous among us jumped into the cold water for a swim. Although tempted to join them, I wasn’t allowed in without a life jacket.

“I am a good swimmer. I don’t need this kind of protection!”

The captain disregarded my appeals.

I guess there were tragic events in the past, when drunk and confident visitors overestimated their abilities. Instead of swimming I fully enjoyed the view of the surrounding Tian Shan mountains, which feature several peaks exceeding 7,000 meters in elevation.

After returning back to mainland I rested on a small sandy beach in Cholpon Ata. Swimming provided a refreshing experience; the atmosphere was calm and my new companions were friendly and curious.

The garden of my basic guesthouse offered unbelievable amounts of plums and apples on regular sized trees. The friendly owner invited me as her guest, and I had a great conversation with visitors from Bishkek enjoying a weekend in nature.

My next stop was Karakol, near the eastern tip of Lake Issyk Kul and the fourth largest city in Kyrgyzstan. It is promoted as a gateway to adventure, culture and cuisine, located on the crossroads of Central Asia. A kind of backpackers’ paradise that offers a range of open-air activities: hiking, horse-trekking, food tasting, climbing and more.

I settled down in a hostel, where the cheapest accommodation was available in a yurt that was raised up in the central courtyard.

A well-organized Tourist Center in downtown offered me information and contacts for all activities. Since most of the tour operators, guides, hotels and trekking organizers are member of the local tourist organization, it was very easy to find the information on one single spot.

My knee was still not completely recovered from a meniscus injury. Thus, I decided to ride a horse up to the mountains and spend a night in a traditional yurt. There, I could taste local food, relax in thermal water, and explore the stunning natural scenery.

The next morning a Swiss cyclist joined me for an overnight horse hike to the Altyn-Arashan area. We met our guide on Karakol’s outskirts, near Ak Su village, where a steep trail leads uphill along the river.

The road quickly turned into a cart path that looked impassable. The beautiful wooded landscape, warm sunshine, and peace were occasionally interrupted by barking dogs guarding farms where sheep are raised in basic conditions.

Following a brief pause for a snack, the trail transformed into a more serpentine and inclined route. The horses were successfully avoiding all the obstacles, when suddenly I heard the rumble of a car engine. I couldn’t believe any jeep, let alone an old Soviet mini-van, could drive through such a terrible road. It slowly moved up the bumpy path, successfully overcoming all barriers.

We arrived at the camp, where we set up the yurt in the late afternoon. While the driver was preparing dinner, I soaked in the nearby thermal waters. What a blessing!

Tired and dirty, I just stepped into the hot water poured into a small pool.

As night fell, the cold hit immediately. I put on all the clothes I had with me, covered myself with a warm blanket and watched the stars in the sky long into the night.

The return the next day was easier, faster and more comfortable. I was pleased to have visited the mountainous region of Kyrgyzstan despite my limited mobility. One of the highlights of my Kyrgyzstan travel adventure.

I found a great place to stay with a local family in Bokonbayevo. A sleepy village without any impressive places to visit or exciting things to do, but a perfect starting point to a nearby canyon or an eagle hunting demonstration.

I stayed in a simple guesthouse, where a small room with basic facilities was compensated by warm welcome from Alibek and his family. They cooked for me, gave advices on local logistics, and even connected me with a golden eagle hunter.

My first stop was the fairytale canyon called Skazka.

It was easy to catch a local bus, which dropped me off on the main road to walk the last part up the valley. The heat was bearable, walking in the sand smooth, random cars driving in the opposite direction.

Colorful rock formations with unusual shapes displayed a stunning spectrum of yellow, red, and orange colors.

The moon-like landscape of Canyon Skazka was shaped over thousands of years by ice, water, and wind, carving rock into towering sculptures.

There were little plants since the lower areas are covered with sand. I walked around to different viewpoints, until I realized there was not a single soul around me. From the highest point, a spectacular view of the entire canyon opened, with Issyk Kul Lake visible in the background.

I walked back to the main road and continued to the beach. The weather at the end of summer was sunny and warm. Just perfect for the last refreshing swim in the lake. People were right; Issyk Kul and its surrounding landscape are truly unique.

Hunting with Golden Eagles is an ancient Central Asian tradition that has been in practice for thousand years in order to acquire food and furs in the harsh winter months. Since ancient times, it was believed that the hunting bird is the most loyal and reliable assistant. For this reason, eagles and falcons have been used for hunting since the 10^th century, long before firearms existed.

Today, eagle hunting is no longer needed for survival in Kyrgyzstan. However, the Issyk Kul region remains ideal for observing traditional demonstrations of eagle hunters.

Through a series of phone calls and messages, I was able to connect with Saltanat, who greeted me in front of the guest house, dressed in traditional clothing and wearing ak-kalpak on his head. The elongated cap is formed of four pieces of white wool felt sewn together.

In the back of our car the mighty bird was covered with a blanket, while a rabbit moved between my legs. We drove in an old Russian car for half an hour outside of the town where the mountain range starts.

Berkuchi – eagle hunters – catch eagles when they are still young and train them carefully for a period of up to 5 years. Via an extensive daily training process, the bird and the hunter develop a strong connection through which Golden Eagles obey the call and voice of their berkuchi, even though they can also recognize other human voices.

People: very friendly.
Highlights: amazing nature, lakes, mountains, trekking and horse-riding possibilities.
Food: meat, meat and more meat. Occasionally good fish. Picturesque bread. Fruits and vegetables – delicious and organic.
Tourists: Нет (0). I hardly encountered any foreign visitors outside of Karakol.
The cost of travel: remarkably low.
Covid-19: Что то? What is this? Not existing. No masks. No restrictions.
Comfort: ride in a tremendous Lexus 4WD at 160 kmph. 1$ per hour.
Capital city – Bishkek: beautiful Soviet architecture, colorful market and Lenin statue.
Communication in Russian: очень хорошо (very good).
Communication in English: very little, because hardly anyone can speak it.
Would I recommend to visit Kyrgyzstan? Absolutely yes.