Uzbekistan

My Uzbekistan travel summary:

Visited: August 2021

Duration of visit: 14 days

Capital city: Tashkent

Population: 33 million (2020)

Uzbekistan travel blog reading time: 12 minutes

• Visiting silk factory in Fergana Valley.
• Samarkand – a Silk Road treasure with memorable Islamic architecture.
• Feeling like Marco Polo in Khiva, while watching magic Kalta Minor Minaret.
• Meat, meat and more meat in restaurants.
• Sharing a cabin with three Бабушки (babushka) on a night train to Tashkent.
• Exploring a mix of modern and Soviet architecture in Tashkent.

Uzbekistan is probably most famous for its old cities that once thrived as major trade centers on the Silk Road. One of the greatest military leaders in history, Amir Timur, set the unprecedented state marks for the region and further development of the Silk Road. Uzbekistanis have always been much less keen on Soviet integration and historically extremely influential within Central Asia.

Uzbekistan is a country rich in history and Islamic architecture, with splendid ancient cities full of well-preserved, old mosques, mausoleums and madrassas. This cultural heritage is matched by the exceptional hospitality of its people.

I quickly got a seat in a shared taxi to Fergana after a slightly complicated process of Covid-19 testing at the border. Wide roads, little traffic and scarce police radar detectors enhanced the power of our driver. Even though it looked as a suicidal mission, I later realized that my first driver in Uzbekistan was actually one of the most moderate ones.

My new local friends from a taxi invited me for lunch, while waiting for a hostel manager to pick me up. We sat down in a recently opened, picturesque restaurant with a variety of dishes on 20+ pages of the menu, decorated with photos of delicious meals. Beside some salads and two kinds of soups, all dishes contained meat. I quickly realized the country isn’t exactly a paradise for vegetarians.

During my Uzbekistan travel adventure, meatless meals were hard to find, and salads and fruit became my daily staples.

Although Fergana Valley lacks interesting places to visit and things to do, I still had a good time there.

Yodgorlik Silk Factory in Margilon must have been a fascinating factory for silk products in the country, which is the world’s third-largest silk producer. The best times were gone and the output seems to have decreased, while pandemic and lack of interest reduced the work force during the last critical year.

I had the chance to observe traditional silk production, from steaming and unravelling the cocoons to weaving. The process created dazzling khanatlas – handwoven fabrics of silk, cotton, or mixed materials with traditional black-and-white Uzbek designs.

The next day, I continued my journey and headed to the city of Samarkand. Due to lack of direct connections, I chose an illogical transit through Tashkent.

A young, self-confident driver gave me one of the most thrilling drives of my life, overtaking cars and approaching slower vehicles by mere centimeters. He peeled pumpkin seeds and steered with one hand, while constantly checking messages and talking on the phone.

I immediately decided that I would use any opportunity to replace road transportation with the efficient railroad network in Uzbekistan. No more crazy car competitions!

Afternoon ride on a train from Tashkent to Samarkand was an exceptionally enjoyable experience. The extreme summer heat and basic economy class berth filled me up with such pleasure and joy that I relaxed completely and took my regular afternoon nap.

Samarkand was once one of the oldest and most important settlements on the Silk Road … and it still is! Today, Samarkand is the highlight of any trip to Uzbekistan.

As a key Silk Road city, it sat on the crossroads leading to China, India and Persia, bringing in trade and artisans, while always under pressure by ambitious rulers to conquer it. In 1370, the great leader Timur chose Samarkand as his capital. Over the next 35 years, he transformed it into a nearly mythical Central Asian city that still stands today.

When I first approached the world’s oldest preserved madrassas in Registan Square, I could hardly believe my eyes. The illuminated, perfectly restored structures stood as a testament to the incredible skills of their builders.

The Registan (also called Sandy Place), paved with fired bricks and cobbles, was a public square, where people gathered to hear royal proclamations, to trade and socialize in its bazaars or to witness public executions. It is framed by three madrassas (Islamic schools) of distinctive Islamic architecture. The square was regarded as the hub of the Timurid Renaissance.

The madrassas feature tall minarets, mosaic panels, geometric ornaments, and Samarkand’s signature blue tiles. They were built between the 15^th and 17^th centuries.

I returned to Registan various times to observe the scene under changing position of the sun throughout the day. The vibrant colors of intricate tiles constantly display a whole new perspective, giving this UNESCO World Heritage Sites additional charm.

The beautiful night lights were just the beginning of exploring these perfectly restored monuments of Islamic architecture. For the next two days, I walked through the city in the early mornings and late evenings. Samarkand often reminded me of Esfahan (Iran), with its mosques, madrassas, colorful bazaars, and very friendly people.

I was happy to communicate in Russian after studying it for the past two years. At the same time, I was surprised to be one of the very few foreigners exploring these monuments almost alone.

Especially at dusk, I couldn’t see a single soul around me. I never got bored of seeing the same mosque or madrassa from a different angle or at different time of the day.

Not far from Registan Square stands one of the most important monuments of Samarkand – The Bibi-Khanym Mosque. In the 15^th century, it was one of the largest and most magnificent mosques in the Islamic world, considered a masterpiece of the Timurid Renaissance. By the mid-20th century, only grand ruins remained, but major parts of the mosque were restored during the Soviet era.

After passing through the vast 35-meters high parade portal, I entered into the central courtyard.

A monumental dome rises on the opposite side of the courtyard, standing 40 meters high above a square base. The dome forms the largest cupola of the biggest mosque of its kind in Central Asia.

A local visitor from the capital asked me to take a photo of her family with the amazing background. We then had a deep and meaningful conversation about life in Uzbekistan. One of the most interesting things to do in Uzbekistan was speaking with locals and exchanging cultural habits.

For the grand finale, I visited the place dedicated to the great leader – Amir Timur – Mausoleum Gur-i Amir Complex. Speechless, grateful, and humbled, I bought souvenirs from a local artist. They had struggled for over a year and a half due to pandemic restrictions and lack of visitors.

I rented a bicycle to explore the whole complex and surrounding areas more easily.

It was oddly noticeable that most cars driving around were white. When I saw that the majority were Chevrolets, I realized something was unusual.

Here is the explanation!

After declaring independence from the Soviet Union, the largest Daewoo factory in Central Asia, with co-investment of Uzbekistan government, was built. A few years later, GM took over Daewoo and Chevrolet was established as the main brand. 94% of new cars sold in Uzbekistan were Chevys, since import duties of other brands were twice as much as the value of a car itself.

People have to wait for more than a year to get a new car and actually pay bribes to get it in the first place.

As a joke, Uzbekistan is sometimes called Chevystan, in reference to the car company’s most monopolized market: People can buy any car, as long as it is Chevrolet and white.

Whenever I saw a car of a different brand or color, it felt like a real attraction to me.

The next stop on my Uzbekistan travel journey was Bukhara.

More than 2,000 years old, the historic center of Bukhara has been listed on UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1993. It is one of the best examples of well-preserved Islamic cities of Central Asia that was created from 10^th to 17^th centuries, with an urban fabric that has remained largely intact.

Bukhara attained its greatest importance in the late 16^th century, when the Shaybānids’ possessions included most of Central Asia as well as northern Persia and Afghanistan. The ancient Persian city served as a major center of Islamic culture for many centuries and became a major cultural center of the Caliphate.

The Emirate of Bukhara tragically ended in 1920, when the Soviet Bolshevik Army took over and the new policy came to town. Soon enough, Moscow realized about the importance of this old city, one of the main landmarks of the Silk Road. The renovation of mosques, madrassas, mausoleums, walls with ark citadel and domes, that started in the 1970s, transformed Bukhara to a town museum.

While walking around the city, sometimes Bukhara felt too kitschy for me. There were many stores and street vendors aimed at tourists, who were mostly absent that year. However, the city still retains much of its former aspect, with its mosques, madrassas, flat-roofed houses of sun-dried bricks, and remains of covered bazaars.

My last stop on the ancient Silk Road was the city of Khiva, also called the shining pearl on Silk Road. This time, my guesthouse was right in the center of the old town. It had a fantastic view of the Kalta Minor Minaret, the highlight of Khiva’s Itchan Kala – the old town.

I was feeling like Marco Polo, travelling in the 13^th or 14^th century, surrounded by the old town, which retains more than 50 historic monuments and 250 old houses.

Those are mostly converted to guesthouses, hotels and restaurants, but strictly respecting architecture, design and mud colors, using original materials.

Khiva kept me busy for several days with many things to do and historical sites to visit.

The most spectacular features of Ichan Kala are its crenellated brick walls and four gates, one at each side of the rectangular fortress. I can’t explain my feeling walking around in the early morning, when the city was waking up, and observing sunbeams falling on ancient buildings.

The sunset was not less impressive either. I met only four foreigners in two days, while exploring Khiva. This was a result of Covid-19 restrictions, which temporarily kept foreigners from visiting Uzbekistan.

The distance between Khiva and Tashkent is almost 1,000 kilometers, but, thanks to a night train, it turned out to be a memorable experience. I got the last ticket in second class cabin with 4 berths.

As soon as I met my fellow travelers, I knew I was in good company. Three overweight ladies in late 50’s that I kindly called бабушки (grandmothers) were very formal and quiet at the beginning. As soon as they realized that my Russian was bearable, the conversation started.

The ladies shared food, tea, pumpkin seeds and memories with me, while we commented lifestyle in Slovenia, Uzbekistan, old Soviet Union and wider. They were all singles (again) on their holiday to Tashkent. After the fourth group member joined, they couldn’t stop laughing and proudly showing off their gold teeth, their greatest wealth.

While I was blown away by Old Silk Road cities of Samarkand and Khiva, I didn’t have much expectation from the capital city of Tashkent. So wrong I was!

I liked the city more and more with every hour spent walking, cycling, or using a bus, taxi, or metro.

Tashkent is well marked by a mix of Soviet-era and modern architecture. The City Congress Hall, Friendship of the Nations Palace, Hotel Uzbekistan, Islam Karimov Museum, The Senate of the Oliy Majlis, the White House and the State Museum of the History, are just some of the most representative buildings in perfect shape, located within a reasonable distance to walk or cycle among them.

Wide avenues with up to five lanes in the form of perfect rectangles, long blocks, imposing government buildings and water fountains are associating with luxury apartment buildings, extravagant hotels, aerodynamic designed sport hall and a central stadium. Well-maintained parks on almost every block, with efficient irrigation, provide a pleasant, natural environment and a peaceful place to relax.

I was lucky that during my Uzbekistan travel adventure, it was Independence Day. The country was celebrating 30 years of independence. Streets were decorated, flags flew from every corner, and people were full of joy and pride.

In fact, it wasn’t just a single day but an entire Independence Week, with five consecutive days of public holidays. I could feel the national spirit and see how much independence means to the people of Uzbekistan.

The whole country is monitored 24 hours a day by various police forces: tourist, transit, religious and informal police.

As soon as I got used to it, I just ignored their presence. The only place I felt a little scared was at the metro stations while taking photos. Until two years ago, taking photos in underground metro stations was strictly prohibited for security reasons.

Many stations also serve as nuclear bunkers in case of war. Nevertheless, it seemed that the old photo ban was widely forgotten. I took the opportunity to photograph the beautifully decorated and thematic metro stations, which are definitely worth capturing as unique attractions and must-visit places in the city.

Chorsu Bazar is a traditional marketplace situated in the heart of the historic district of Tashkent. Within its blue-domed structure and surrounding areas, a wide variety of products is available, from meat and fruits to carpets and souvenirs. I was also happy to find vegetables, textiles, and almost any other product or service you can imagine.

Stalls are systematically organized in sections under different domes covered with blue and green tiles. Chaos is organized, vendors are polite and the variety of products is the greatest in Uzbekistan.

Tashkent was the last stop on my Uzbekistan travel adventure. The appropriate location to conclude the journey from the Silk Road to contemporary Uzbekistan, which has been strongly influenced by the authoritarian president Islam Karimov, whose legacy remain evident in the daily life of this Central Asian country.

Uzbekistan was one of the most pleasant surprises in my backpacking career. A mix of cultural experiences, historic Silk Road sites, friendly people, and excellent travel facilities made the trip unforgettable. All this was combined with the absence of tourist crowds that usually fill the most popular destinations and places to visit.

In a few words this could be a short sum up.

• People: very friendly.
• Highlights: Silk Road cities of Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva – amazing.
• Fruits and vegetables: delicious and organic.
• Food: meat, meat and meat.
• Many tourists: нет (0).
• Prices: incredibly cheap
• Covid-19: not existing. No masks. No restrictions.
• Crazy experience: riding intercity shared taxi.
• Tashkent: fantastic mix of socialist and modern architecture.
• Comfort: riding a bullet train at 220 kmph.
• Communication in Russian: хорошо (good).
• Communication in English: zero.
• Should you visit? Absolutely yes. Immediately.