Turkmenistan

Visited: September 2024

Duration of visit: 5 days

Capital city: Ashgabat

Population: 6.4 million (2024)

Estimated reading time: 26 minutes

• Crossing the Caspian Sea, navigating from Alat port in Azerbaijan to Turkmenbashi in Turkmenistan.
• Early morning walk on the cliff above spectacular Yangikala Canyon.
• Stopping in residential neighborhood of Balkanabat and tasting delicious local food.
• Walking around the cemetery in Nohur village, while observing graves, marked by the horns of mountain goats.
• Cruising around empty streets of a would-be smart city Arkadag.
• Trying to understand the purpose of marble white buildings in ghost capital Ashgabat.
• Siting on the edge of Darvaza crater and staring at the flaming fangs that have been blazing from the Gates of Hell for decades.

Considered the second most isolated country after North Korea, the Republic of Turkmenistan is one of the least visited countries in the world, receiving less than 10,000 visitors a year after reopening to tourists following the Covid-19 pandemic (2024).

Possessing the sixth largest oil and natural gas reserves in the world, with only 6.4 million inhabitants, Turkmenistan could be one of the richest countries in the world, but it is shrouded in mystery and contradiction as a result of unusual rules and regulations imposed by the autocratic regime since its independence in 1991.

Turkmenistan was the last country in Central Asia that I visited. Already knowledgeable about the Stans countries and decently speaking Russian, I visited Turkmenistan with my Slovenian friend Ales in September 2024. The country has imposed restrictions on foreign visitors for years after Covid-19 pandemic and only recently reopened under special conditions.

Even though a prearranged tour with a local guide and taxi driver is a must, I managed to make an agreement to be accompanied only by a driver in order to decrease high price of the tour package.

Turkmenistan is cheaper than most of its neighboring country, but due to the regulations and restrictions for foreigners and complicated visa procedures, the visit is rather expensive.

Most of the foreigners book a standard two- or three-days tour, which includes the capital Ashgabat and Darvaza gas crater. I wanted more, therefore I crossed the Caspian Sea by ferry from Alat port in Baku to Turkmenbashi and continued overland toward the east, visiting Yangikala Canyon, Balkanabat, Nohur, the capital Ashgabat and finally the main Turkmen landmark The Gates of Hell in Darvaza.

The starting point for crossing the Caspian Sea is in the port of Alat, about an hour's drive south of the Azerbaijani capital, Baku.

To learn more about my two-day waiting experience in Azerbaijan before embarking on the Turkmen ship Bagtyyar, which carried me to Turkmenbashi, please visit the following link.

We finally departed the port of Alat just before the sunset on Day 3.

The navigation was smooth, the food onboard simple. The cabin was comfortable, small toilet offered the luxury of hot shower, which was highly appreciated after two days abstinence.

The Turkmenbashi International Seaport was a proper introduction to the unreasonable, oversized or underutilized buildings in Turkmenistan. The largest port on the Caspian Sea, built in 2013 at a cost of US$2 billion, is a mix of excessive buildings that accommodate infrequent users with underused high-end technology and a lack of staff who is also poorly trained and unaccustomed to working under pressure.

About 50 passengers from our ship were received by only one clerk, who slowly enrolled the passengers into the system. He was soaking wet, and we were sweating too, due to inoperative air conditioner. When it was my turn, I was directed to the far opposite part of the port where, after waiting for half an hour and paying 50.00 US$, a Turkmenistan visa was stuck in my passport.

I returned to the original official who entered the information into the system and welcomed me to Turkmenistan.

Fortunately, Ales noticed that the deadline on our visas was wrong. It took another hour for the sweaty official to correct the error in the system to avoid interrogations and misunderstandings when we would leave the country at the end of the trip.

Since tourists can’t travel alone in Turkmenistan, I booked a tour package that would include everything: transport, accommodation, food and entrance fees. When buying a bottle of water and ice cream, I calculated the price in dollars at the official exchange rate of 3.5 Turkmenistan Manat (TMT) for 1.00 US$.

While water was reasonably priced at 1.00 US$, locally produced ice creams seemed to be overpriced at more than 2.00 US$. Our driver, Boris, explained that the exchange rate at the black market is actually 20 TMT for 1.00 US$, which puts the costs in local currency into a completely different perspective – 5 times cheaper.

The black-market exchange rate had made Turkmenistan one of the cheapest countries in the world: 20 liters of gasoline for 1.00 US$, 1 liter of water at 0.25 US$, a lunch in high-end restaurant for less than 5.00 US$, etc.

When we were finally ready to start, Boris explained to us that we would probably arrive late at our first stop - the Yangykala Canyon. I was too hungry to skip the main course of the day and required the first stop in a restaurant. The food was delicious. Lentil soup, fruit salad and fish in a prestigious restaurant at the shores of the Caspian Sea, with magnificent view over the calm sea and some swimmers on sandy beach.

We also stopped in a local supermarket, which was offering a wide selection of vegetables, fruits, bread, diary products, sweets and all other stuff. Many customers and pleasant vendors at every department created a vibrant atmosphere.  We topped off our grocery shopping with a bottle of local vodka at a specialty liquor store, loaded all the goods into the trunk of our Toyota Hillux pick-up, and headed out for the dessert in the late afternoon.

It was already getting dark when we stopped on an abandoned bus stop for a pee and last photos.

“The sand storm is coming, we are not going to sleep in a tent. I found a refuge, where we can spend the night.”, were the indications of Boris.

It was almost 9:30pm, when we reached a simple house on a dirt road in the middle of nowhere.

Brick walls, a broken window and an iron door provided us with shelter from the strong wind that kicked up the desert sand. Carpets were laid on the floor, on which we spread a plastic tablecloth and placed all the purchased goods. We spiced up the simple dinner by drinking local vodka, which was particularly undrinkable because it wasn't chilled.

To avoid asthma issues, my friend preferred to spend the night in the Toyota instead in the basic shelter with broken window, which was not sealed enough to detain the sand and dust. Boris and I spread pillows on the floor, drank another glass of vodka, lay down on the floor and fell asleep.

Despite the fact that I woke up several times during the night, I was full of energy in the morning and after an early breakfast, I was ready for the first landmark of Turkmenistan - Yangykala Canyon.

I didn’t know what to expect from Yangykala Canyon, as the basic description and simple photograph in the excursion program could serve as an interpretation of the various dimensions of the natural wonder.

The first view of the canyon opened in front of us when Boris parked the vehicle on the rim of the cliff. It was simply fantastic. Not even in my wildest dreams did I expect something like this.

Yangykala Canyon, carved out of limestone 5,5 million years ago by the disappearing Tethys Sea, offers a surrealist scenery in the forms of shapes and shadows. The cliffs that separate the valley floor from the vast table-like surface of the canyon are striking shades of pink and white. The jagged edges, pillars and structures jutting out from all angles reminded me of Bryce Canyon in the United States.

If the seldom-seen and little-known canyon was located in a more normal country, it would be viewed by a huge number of visitors and would be known all over the world. The remarkable illumination, tranquility, and seclusion left a profound impression on me.

I walked around, meditated, took tens of photos and slightly regretting missed the sunset on the previous day. How magical that would be.

Our next stop was the regional capital of Balkanabat, home of our driver Boris. We stopped in a local restaurant to savor more of the Turkmen specialties. My friend ordered quality local meat, while I enjoyed a delicious soup and a vegetarian option with salad.

We halted at a remarkable white marble Balkan Velayat Central Mosque, which was opened in 2020 and blessed by the president Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedov himself. The Central dome of the mosque is crowned with a Golden Crescent, while, four minarets decorated with motifs typical of Islamic culture rise 63 meters. We were not allowed to visit the prayer hall for three thousand people, but rather continued the road trip to Nohur village.

The village of Nohur fills a small depression valley in the mountains of the Kopet Dag Range, with just about two thousand people, at an altitude of 1,000 to 1,100 meters above sea level. Tucked deep into the mountains, its dusty roads and the clay walls of its houses covered in grapevines and pomegranate trees are a refuge from the harsh desert of Turkmenistan.

Far away from Turkmen mainland, Soviet modernization hardly penetrated into the village and traditional lifestyle flows unabated among the local tribe—Nohurli. They consider themselves to be descendants of the legionnaires of Alexander the Great and they speak a dialect unrecognizable to other Turkmen speakers. This is also what I was told in a spontaneous conversation I had with the local religious leaders.

During a short tour of the village, we first visited the herbal market, where a few men were selling selected herbs for cooking or making tea. Mighty ancient plane trees are said to be centuries old, with a hollow into which several people can fit. On the main road, I spotted watermelon and melon vendors who kindly offered me chilled pieces of delicious fruit to try. I bought a delicious melon for only half a dollar.

The village's cemetery stands out as the main landmark of Nokhur. The graves, adorned with the horns of mountain goats, reflect burial traditions deeply rooted in animism, with elements of Zoroastrianism also present.

The goat horns are believed to ward off evil spirits, while the stones are inscribed with steps to assist the deceased in their journey to heaven.

As I wandered through the cemetery, I noticed that all the tombs were aligned in the same direction. The different sizes of the horns probably testify to the importance of the deceased, or to the hunting skills of them or their descendants. Nowadays it is very difficult to catch animals with big horns, as they have retreated high into the mountains.

There are no hotels in the village, but a simple guesthouse offered us a shelter for the night. The host cooked a basic dinner; delicious meatless soup, fruits and sweets with indispensable tea. The kids offered embraided bags for sale as a souvenir.

Highlights of the first school day (1^st September) were broadcasted on television. A celebration in the capital was prepared for the great leader, with an emphasis on high-tech innovations in schools, universities and the army. Laptops, intelligent solutions, modern equipment and advanced technology are implemented for all generations of hardworking students.

The president stood still, listened, saluted and spoke a few words. The concerted clapping, attentive listening and writing down of the president's instructions seemed like a platitude that turns away from the reality around the country.

The next morning was a complete waste. Visiting a Kow-Ata Cave and horse stables were disappointments, which should have been skipped and replaced with more time in Ashgabat.

“Kow-Ata means Father of caves. At first glance, this underground area appears like a magnificent auditorium. The bottom of the cave is covered with lumps of dissolved limestone (stalagmites), and its warm and gushing water is clear and emerald colored. The water has a constant temperature of 33-37°C.”

The formal description of my guide couldn’t be farther from the reality. Walking down the stairs in dimly lit cave brought me to a dark area where I came across the remains of Kow-Ata underground lake; a lagoon in which bat droppings, bird feathers and garbage were floating. Totally unsuitable for bathing in the pleasantly warm water as previously promised.

Akhalteke horses have a reputation for speed and endurance, intelligence, and a distinctive metallic sheen.

The shiny coat of the breed led to their nickname, Golden Horses. These horses are adapted to severe climatic conditions and are thought to be one of the oldest existing horse breeds. There are currently about 6,600 Akhal-Tekes in the world, mostly in Turkmenistan, although they are also found throughout Europe and North America.

By visiting a private stable in the Gokdepe region, I got to watch the aforementioned horse skills in a short performance. We were sited along a table, offered, tea, fruits and sweets, while 4 horses were presented on the green area in front of us.

I'm not exactly a horse expert, but my amateur eye noticed the rather limited abilities of relatively small horses. My friend really wanted to leave as he thought the show was ridiculous, torturing animals that looked malnourished. We did not seriously consider offers to ride or take photos with the horses.

On the way to Ashgabat, we made a detour to the new city of Akadag, a so-called smart city. Our driver explained us in advance about a new urban zone, about 30 kilometers from the capital, which has been under construction since 2019.

An intelligent transportation network will control the movement of vehicles, while people will be monitored through widespread CCTV cameras. The city's residential areas will be equipped with advanced home automation systems, enabling to monitor the usage of electricity, water and gas through their smartphones. Private cars will have to be parked on the outskirts of the city, as only public transportation will be allowed in the city.

At the time, president Berdimuhamedow envisioned a sprawling city center that would include a government complex, high-rise apartment blocks, modern medical facilities, shopping malls, financial institutions, a performing arts venue, a public library, an art museum, a public park, a stadium and even facilities for horse breeding.

It was a mindblower experience visiting this project five years later in September 2024, when billions of dollars have been spent, most of the building finished, wide roads perfectly shaped and recreational areas exemplarily arranged.

There was not a single person, car, bus or action. Only seldom workers in charge of maintenance were walking around this ghost, white city, which spans over an area of more than 1,000 hectares, capable of housing over 70,000 people.

I asked my driver, if he was interested in living and working in Arkadag. He convincedly answered positively, but unfortunately, he doesn’t qualify due to lack of education, connections and current income. Nevertheless, from other sources I heard that the residents of Ashgabat eligible to get housing in Arkadag are not enthusiastic to make the move because of the restrictions, surveillance and distance from the capital.

We drove around, observing climatized bus stops, a modern stadium, luxury villas and apartment buildings, before leaving through the main gates, where a statue of the president is welcoming the new residents.

It is hard to say whether this project of former president Berdimuhamedow, whose nickname is the same as the name of the city - Arkadag, would fulfil the futuristic expectations of its founder and become a living city with soul, offering high-quality standard of living to its future residents or it will remain a ghost town, where luxury buildings remain uninhabited.

Serdar Berdimuhamedow, the current president of Turkmenistan and son of the former leader, has not provided extensive information regarding the future stages of development.

Although, due to its location north of the Kopet Dag Mountains and close to the Iranian border, Ashgabat is known for its desert climate with high summer temperatures above 40⁰C, the weather was pleasant during my visit. Blue sky, warm days with the temperatures in the low 30°s and refreshing nights allowed me to explore the city during the day and extend the visit after 11:00pm, when, in principle, the official nighttime curfew starts.

Currently, the curfew from 11:00pm to 6:00am only refers to the operation of restaurants, bars and other commercial areas. Therefore, we were free to cruise around the city at night without restrictions, but always accompanied by the driver.

I immediately noticed some unusual features in The City of White Marble: exclusively white buildings, predominantly white cars (recently silver and gold cars are also allowed), almost zero traffic, spotless clean public areas and hardly any people.

The streets, buildings, and vehicles in the city are all kept clean to match the shiny marble appearance. There are strict regulations and rules with heavy fines against pollution, littering, speed limits and improper photography, which assure the perfect backdrop to the Turkmen capital.

The capital of Turkmenistan, is a remarkable fusion of magnificence, uniqueness, and intrigue. It has been largely reconstructed following a catastrophic earthquake in 1948, evolving into a city that the president of Turkmenistan has called a showcase city, celebrated for its opulent statues, contemporary designs, and expansive avenues lined with marble, which are constantly quiet.

The City of White Marble is recognized globally by the Guinness World Records for the highest concentration of white marble buildings in the world, with over 500 structures constructed from this luxurious material, covering an area of 4.5 million square meters. The preference for white marble in Ashgabat is intentional; it represents neutrality, a core value in Turkmenistan's approach to foreign policy.

The official explanation to justify the use of this particular material is the following: White marble not only makes the buildings look elegant, it also reflects the sunlight, thus cooling down the walls in the summer, while in the winter and in a gloomy weather it lightens your mood.

Visitors often wonder where all the people are when they see photos of Turkmenistan's white-marbled capital. My experience confirmed it; the new Ashgabat during my visit appeared to be empty at any time of the day. The city is filled with grand buildings, marble streets, open spaces, and water features, but it is empty of people. When I asked the driver, where the people were, I was told that everyone is at work or at school. But no one appeared on the streets even before or after work.

When we were cruising the city at night, there were hardly any cars. Late in the evening we spotted a group of four young people in the park with panoramic view over the city. Nearby, about two dozen men posed with a bride and groom on the street in front of Bagt Koshgi monument. When my friend approached them and took a picture of them a big dispute broke out, as his photography was said to bring misfortune to the couple.

Beside the Guinness World Records for the highest concentration of white marble buildings in the world, Ashgabat also boasts some other records:

… the largest indoor ferris wheel, standing at over 47 meters; the largest architectural star, the biggest horse head structure and the largest fountain complex, the Oguzkhan Fountain.

There are numerous statues and monuments around Ashgabat, which are visible from a distance and seldom visited by any other person, when I was approaching them. Most of them are dedicated to the first or the second president of Turkmenistan or celebrate their beliefs and teachings.

The Monument of Neutrality is a three-legged arch, topped with a gold-plated statue of Niyazov, is symbolizing Turkmenistan's policy of neutrality. It stood in the downtown until 2018, when it was dismantled and moved to the current location. In 2015, the UN General Assembly adopted the Resolution Permanent Neutrality of Turkmenistan, by which the international community supported the so-called peace-loving policy of Turkmenistan.

A rather peculiar decision of the Turkmen government, that has been in practice used to avoid joining multilateral organizations, particularly security organizations. At the same time Turkmenistan has been practically shut off from the outside world.

The government in Ashgabat has enjoyed luxurious seclusion while the people have been sheltered, getting only limited updates on global events and always being shown a polished and excessively positive perspective on their own country's situation, despite being able to easily spot the lies being spread by the official media.

The Ruhnama Monument worships a book written by Niyazov that is a combination of spiritual guidance, personal memoir, and national epic. The Ruhnama was a central part of education, and it was supposedly compulsory reading not just in schools but also for obtaining a driving license.

The Independence Monument of Turkmenistan is one of the largest and most lavish examples globally. Spanning over 80,000 square meters, this monument, inspired by traditional Turkmen tents, is located at the heart of a beautifully landscaped park, featuring many water fountains and pools, which were not working during my visit.

Around the monument's focal point, there are 27 statues honoring Turkmen heroes and a golden statue of Turkmenistan's long-running dictator Niyazov, which stands in front of a dome, with a 91-meter high tower that resembles a minaret extending from its summit.

Alem Cultural and Entertainment Center was opened in 2012 and it still holds the World Guinness Record for the largest indoor Ferris wheel. Its appearance resembles a giant eight-pointed star, a common motif in Turkmen textiles and architecture. The Ferris wheel, housed in a 47-meter tall glass and white steel casing, serves as a bright symbol of progress and amusement in the heart of Turkmenistan. This is the promotional wording for the attraction.

I visited it at approximately 1:00pm and I was the first person to arrive that day. To my surprise, the whole entertainment center was empty.

Perfectly designed ticket booths didn’t operate, lights at children's playgrounds were off and broken toilets were only half-functioning. I encountered the employees, who called for a worker to start the mighty wheel only for me and my friend.

Unbelievable! A 90-million-dollar investment, reminiscent of the London Eye, was running just for the two of us.

The perspective from the top was nothing special, as the massive structure of ferris wheel blocked the view and made it impossible to take nice photos. When I tried to tip the operator, he insisted that I pay the official price (5.00 US$ for two people), even though he couldn't issue me a ticket due to the malfunctioning operating system.

Visible from a distance, due to its location at the top of the hill, Yyldyz Hotel could easily represent another example of an inappropriate money spending. I find it hard to imagine these facilities, offering more than 150 luxury rooms, is occupied, as there was not a single vehicle driving or parking on the intact three lane road which surrounds it, except for the bus that transports the workers. Three bus stations, equipped with air conditioners, televisions and luxury seats were short of passengers in the afternoon sun.

A flamboyant Monument to the Constitution raising up as the second highest building in Ashgabat, was constructed to mark the 20^th anniversary of Turkmenistan’s independence in 2011. The monument is 185 meters tall including the platform (refer to the 185 countries that have recognized Turkmenistan’s neutral status).

Three-level foundation is 27 meters high and it is constructed from eight-point Turkmen stars that ascend in three tiers at the core, alongside a 91-meter-tall spire positioned at the pinnacle of this structure.

These dimensions mark the anniversary of 27.10.1991, the date when Turkmenistan declared its independence.

The eleven-storey building, called Bagt Koshgi – is officially used as a wedding palace. Palace of Happiness is a three-storey structure, each side of which has the shape of an eight-pointed star. A cube rising above large pillars forms its upper stage and includes a sphere with a diameter of 32 meters - the symbolic planet Earth with the image of Turkmenistan.

The outside splendor is supplemented with marriage registration rooms, wedding halls, including the Golden Hall for weddings, banquet rooms, shops and cafes providing all the necessary items for unforgettable weddings.

I managed to persuade the security guard to let me in the only accessible indoor facilities: two wedding dress shops, where saleswomen were bored in idleness. The guy in charge of cleaning proudly explained to me how luxurious were a few weddings, taking place every month, while I thought that even Las Vegas could envy such facilities, completely underused in Ashgabat.

Arkadag Monument celebrates the second president of Turkmenistan - Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow. The president is riding a golden horse, an Akhalteke of course, while the horse is riding on a white marble wave!

State Museum of Turkmenistan was the only building that I visited inside. Even though I am not a big fan of museums, the exhibition was interesting enough to walk around for an hour, learning about the development of Turkmenistan from ancient states to the modern independent nation.

A special section dedicated to the current president Serdar Berdimuhamedow carefully presents his inspired biography, indisputable ability to lead the nation, his desire to continue the great projects of his predecessors, and the perfectionist salute pose as he bends his right arm greeting the people.

In front of the museum stands the country’s tallest flagpole, raising at 133 meters, which was the tallest in the world until 2010. Two soldiers guard the flag 24 hours a day, while their superior chases away all miscreants who would like to take a close-up photo.

In Ashgabat things change after the sun sets. Numerous structures and landmarks are actually shown in a new perspective thanks to the vibrant LED lighting that surrounds them. It is amazing to see the vibrant display against the night sky, which highlights the city's love of grandeur.

The city's lighting allows seldom visitors enjoy its artificial attractions for longer and offers a striking example of creative and technological innovation.

Nonetheless, it is simple to observe the guidelines, restrictions and planning. All of the signage is only available in a small selection of fonts and limited to four colors. Even though descriptions of restaurants, bars and shopping mall appear on the top of perfectly illuminated buildings, I doubt that there are any businesses operating indoors at all. The movement of people around the city at night is similar to daytime. Close to none.

Although I visited the main landmarks of Ashgabat, the time I spent in Ashgabat was too short. I wish I had more time, not only to visit the Russian Bazar, Nisa fortress, Ruhy Mosque and Mausoleum of the first president of Turkmenistan, but also the old Ashgabat where people actually live. Maybe this could be a good reason to return one day and follow up the development in this curious country.

Namely, Ashgabat is divided into two parts: the old and the new city. I might also describe them as the city of the living and the dead city. Although the driver promised us a tour of the place where he lives, but there was not enough time to see the seemingly lively part of the capital.

After driving almost 300 kilometers, mostly on bad roads, we had to pull off road to reach our final destination that day: The Gates of Hell in Darvaza. It was late and almost dark, just after the sunset. The driver navigated his way over the soft sand and left us next to the Darvaza gas crater, before he parked in the surrounding campground, where we were going to spend the night in a yurt.

The climate was much more pleasant than in Yangikala Canyon, the darkness didn’t have any negative impact on the activities. The night is actually the time when the crater with flaming gases becomes much more visible than during the day.

In 1971, engineers were reportedly drilling for oil when a rig malfunctioned and inadvertently punctured a massive underground natural gas cavern.

This led to the creation of a large crater that measures 70 meters wide and 30 meters deep. Geologists set fire to it in order to contain the methane gas from spreading further. The sinkhole has been continuously burning ever since.

The sole objective of visiting the Gates of Hell is to approach the rim as much as possible, without falling in the carter, to observe the flames, feel the heat and enjoy the spectacle. Depending on how strong the wind is, the heat from the crater can be blown directly into the faces of unsuspecting tourists. The metal bars of the drilling platform remain suspended, a reminder of the once active gas harvesting. They warn tourists tempted to venture towards the Gates of Hell to proceed with caution.

I spent hours around the crater in the evening and repeated the activity at the sunrise next morning. It is a unique place, where a combination of human ambitions and nature strength easily shows the inferiority of human beings.

In January 2022, the supreme leader appeared on a state-run TV channel, urging officials to find a solution to extinguish the fire of the large burning crater. There seem to be environmental reasons for the closure, since the crater leaks methane gas, which is damaging to the atmosphere; additionally, the gas has negative health effects for nearby residents.

However, he also pointed out that the country has been losing valuable natural resources for which they could get significant profits and use them for improving the well-being of our people. A cynical statement compared to the vast amounts of money spent on strengthening his cult or building useless premises instead of improving the quality of life of Turkmen people.

Since breaking free from Soviet control in 1991, Turkmenistan has been governed by authoritarian regimes that have permitted no substantial opposition and have severely restricted the entry of foreigners.

Both, the first president, Saparmurat Niyazov and his successor, Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow implemented personal cults, featuring detailed celebrations, statues and illogical development, which amaze with their greatness and, at the same time, raise serious doubts about their purpose.

Meanwhile Turkmens, who could live in one of the most prosperous countries in the world, are stuck in time, strictly supervised and disconnected from the modern means of communication.

I doubt that the current president, Serdar Berdimuhamedow, who inherited power from his father in 2022, can continue to foolishly waste money on unproductive projects and keep the population isolated from international community, on the edge of survival and under strict control.

Sooner or later the gas money will end, and the country will either collapse or open to the world. In the meantime, there will be probably much less tourism if Darvasa Gates of Hell are extinguished and tourism concept will operate on the current restrictive system, instead of being liberalized.

Bottomline, visiting Turkmenistan was a unique experience of natural wonders, bizarre, modern and lifeless capital Ashgabat, delicious food, a lot of driving through arid countryside and constant astonishment at many irrational rules or restrictions.