North Vietnam

Visited: October 1999

Duration of stay: 12 days

Capital city: Hanoi

Population: 78.50 million (1999)

North Vietnam travel blog reading time: 11 minutes

• From ancient temples and markets to French-Chinese influences in Hanoi.
• Mai Chau Valley – a harmony between nature, heaven, earth and people
• Annoying vendors pushing to buy at any opportunity.
• Avoiding what most backpackers and tourists choose: cheap organized tours.
• Appreciating beautiful landscape and eating delicious food in Ha Long Bay.

Northern Vietnam was my first real contact with the country after I crossed the land border from China. Right away, I felt that this was a completely different world, with different habits and culture.

In this article I describe my trip to North Vietnam:

• Vietnam’s iconic food
• Short history lesson
• Unique architecture and Women’s Museum in Hanoi
• Backpackers become tourists
• Challenging public transport
• Rice terraces and Ha Long Bay

More articles about Vietnam are available here:

Vietnamese food is influenced by nearby countries, but two dishes are so famous worldwide they aren’t even translated into English: banh mi and pho.

Pho is a comforting rice noodle soup in a savory broth with chicken or beef, enriched by fresh herbs. A vegetarian alternative with tofu was my only choice.

Banh mi is a sandwich made of a loaf of bread with the filling of three main components: meat (roasted pork, barbecue or grilled pork), vegetables (cucumber, carrot, cilantro) and sauce (chili, tomato or soy sauce). Both dishes are eaten at any time of the day, but especially for breakfast.

As a vegetarian, I had some harsh times to find non-meat food, even though vegetarianism is habitually practiced to support prayers and wishes. Buddhist monks and nuns abstain from animal foods. Regular people are part-time vegetarians on specific days of each lunar months.

Vietnam was under French control from the mid-1800s to the 1950s. The French influence still reflects in food, legal and education systems, language and especially in the architecture of Hanoi and Saigon. The majority of foreign group tourists that I met, were from France, always following local guides in their native language and offering tremendous tips.

After World War II, Vietnam was split into two parts: the south, with Saigon as its capital, backed by the French, and the north, with Hanoi as its capital. The northern government was led by Ho Chi Minh, who was inspired by Chinese and Soviet communism.

Both sides wanted a unified Vietnam, but under different concepts. The north was opting for communist organization, while the south preferred Western capitalism.

With the Cold War intensifying worldwide, the USA hardened its policies against any allies of the Soviet Union. The conflict transformed into a cruel war, which represents the darkest and most famous era of Vietnam’s history.

The 20-year long fighting between North Vietnam, supported by its communist allies, and South Vietnam, backed by the United States and other anti-communist nations, took place between 1955 and 1975.

The war ended in 1975 with the Fall of Saigon, when North Vietnam took over the southern capital.

Finally, Vietnam was unified under communist rule. The war ravaged the country, claimed millions of lives, and had a major impact on world politics. More than 3 million people were killed in the Vietnam War, majority of whom were Vietnamese civilians.

After crossing overland border without any issues, but with plenty of paperwork, the first moto taxis proved the perception of a scam.

I agreed to be transported to the village of Lang Son, that was approximately 25 kilometers distant. Less than three kilometers later, the driver stopped, convincing me that this was the final destination. I simply ignored the moto-taxi driver, surprised with his explanation and switched to a real taxi that drove me the rest of the trip to the final destination.

The next morning was my first real chance to feel the true vibrance of North Vietnam.

Motorbike engines buzzed like a swarm of flies, with many riders wearing green military clothing and motorcycle taxi drivers using military-style helmets.

The offer of fruits at a local market reminds me on the variety available in neighboring China, except of a more tropical flavor and smaller variation. The rich soil and good climate help the crops grow with strong, natural flavors.

The French baguette was the highlight and the best surprise of my daily diet. Warm, cheap, available everywhere, this delicious bread made breakfast feel special. In the first few days I was in heaven, eating bread with butter. I was completely mesmerized, especially after two months in China where I couldn’t find proper bread at all.

I traveled to Hanoi in a small van for 12 people. Wanting to fill all the seats, the driver drove around Lang Son for almost an hour. During that time, we passed my hotel seven times.

The roads in northern Vietnam are in poor condition, winding and dangerous. It seems that everyone drives without order, ignoring the rules and taking no precautions. We needed five hours to travel just over 150 kilometers to the capital, including a stop for lunch.

Hanoi is the capital and second-most populous city of Vietnam, with plenty of things to do and many places to visit.

Compared to Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi still keeps more of its traditional Vietnamese culture, giving it a more authentic feel.

More than six decades of French colonization and centuries of influence from China have impacted the designs of the old houses: many examples of glorious French colonial architecture in the form of monuments, cafes or churches are visible around the city. Hanoi Opera House, St. Joseph’s Cathedral, the Presidential Palace and Long Bien Bridge are some of the main landmarks, each reflecting a different chapter of the city’s history.

The special architecture award goes to the so-called tube houses – tall, but very narrow up to five story apartment buildings. Because of the property tax, introduced in the 19^th century, based on the width of the building, many houses are extremely narrow. Some as narrow as a bicycle!

Tube houses may not be Hanoi’s primary landmarks, but they are hard to miss.

In 1999, the center of Hanoi didn’t look like one of Asia’s fast-growing capitals. I saw only two high-rise buildings downtown and maybe a dozen in the whole city. Still, the noise, the endless motorbike crowds, the constant honking, and the street vendors made the days start very early and end late at night.

One of the highlights of Hanoi for me was the Vietnamese Women’s Museum. By focusing on women, it promotes gender equality and shows the important roles Vietnamese women have played in the country’s history and culture.

Especially during the war, women played an extremely important role, taking care of the household on their own while the men were fighting on the front line.

The thing that surprised me most about Vietnam was how many services were created just for foreign tourists. I kept seeing restaurant menus in French or English, prices listed in dollars, and tour offers to every corner of the country. It seems that almost all travelers become tourists in Vietnam, joining organized tours and even using special tourist buses for travel between cities.

It is true that organized tours are incredibly cheap, also according to many fellow-backpackers, the only way to travel around Vietnam. This way, tourists enjoy the attractions and opulence undisturbed, separated from the locals.

Foreign visitors travel in special tourist buses and eat in luxury restaurants that locals can’t afford. They avoid public transport in the big cities and stay in exclusive hotels or guesthouses.

It reminded me of Bali in many ways, but the Vietnamese people were even friendlier.

Naturally, as a stubborn independent traveler, I wanted to resist the system. So instead of taking an organized all-inclusive tour to Mai Chau, I decided to go on my own by local bus.

“This is not possible. Public transport is not for tourists!” the receptionist at the hotel wanted to distract me from my original intentions.

At the beginning my adventure resembled to a real catastrophe. No one knew, where I could catch a bus to Mai Chau.

I took a tricycle to a bus station that had been recommended to me. When I arrived, I realized it was the wrong one, since the buses there were going in the opposite direction. The locals told me to wait by the main road. So, I stood there, hoping to catch a passing bus that would take me to the northern part of the city.

Later, I managed to board a bus to Hoa Binh. After about an hour of driving, I got off with a friendly smoker about five kilometers before the final stop. I waited an hour and a half for the next connection. In the meantime, I was invited to a delicious lunch.

Finally, a bus from Hanoi passed by, and even though it was completely full, it still stopped. Somehow, I managed to squeeze in and stand pressed between the locals for the next two hours to reach Mai Chau.

In Mai Chau, I met another adventurous independent backpacker, Pedro from Spain. He was willing to give up the cheap comfort of an all-inclusive tour for the complicated style of backpacking through the Vietnamese countryside. We found informal accommodation in a family house, raised on wooden stilts above the ground. We calmly negotiated a fair price for the room and the food.

There was one huge room combined with kitchen that was shared among us and owners. Not much luxury nor space in hammock, but far away from the noisy and busy area where tour groups were settled. In the evening, I took a shower in a shared open-air bathroom – just a cold stream of water flowing in front of the house.

Although I didn’t find any particular places to visit or things to do, I still enjoyed the area a lot. Early in the morning, I walked through the rice paddies and tiny paths to Ban Lac village. It is beautifully surrounded by mountains, pleasant streams, and green meadows, creating a pristinely rustic landscape. Rice cultivation and livestock culture are practiced among locals to cover their daily needs.

The local ethnic group speak Thai language, dress traditional costumes and live in stilted houses with woven bamboo flooring, covered by thatched roofs.

The return to Hanoi was another great experience. I laid down on a sack piled up in the back of the bus, surrounded by bunches of papayas on their way to the market.

Despite their poor knowledge of English, a group of minors wanted to talk to me:

“Where are you from?”

I slowly responded about my origins:

“I am from Slovenia, from Europe.”

They quickly whispered among themselves, and then the bravest one suddenly blurted out:

“Maribor, Champions league.”

I nearly fell over when I discovered that boys from a small village in Vietnam follow the Champions League and even know the best Slovenian football club from Maribor.

We became friends instantly. Other passengers shared fruits and sugar cane with us, while I gave out pumpkin seeds and pears. Like one big family, we exchanged the treats and enjoyed the rest of the trip together.

Ha Long Bay and the Cat Ba Archipelago, located in the Gulf of Tonkin, are breathtakingly beautiful areas that were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994. They are known for their numerous limestone mountains, pristine beaches, mysterious caves, and peaceful fishing villages. It is a must-visit place in North Vietnam.

Some 1,600 islands and islets featuring spectacular limestone pillars rising from the sea, the eroded notches, arches and grottos, create a stunning landscape combined with extraordinary seascape.

I couldn’t find any alternative to an organized tour, so I decided to join some other travelers.

On Day 1, we sailed the sea, stopping to enjoy the beautiful scenery and eat delicious food, before arriving at a cozy hotel in the evening. On Day 2, we visited Sung Sot Cave. The first chamber is adorned by stalagmites and stalactites; the second, larger chamber, with extremely high ceiling, hosts interesting rock formations, reminding on animal shapes.

Hiking up 450 steps to the top of Titop Island was challenging. The beautiful view of the bay turned out to be the highlight of the trip and absolutely worth the effort.

On Day 3, the official tour ended, but I decided to stay an extra two days on one of the islands. Empty sandy beach offered good relaxation, delicious tropical fruits and warm water. I felt full of energy and ready to continue my journey south.

Back in Hanoi, I rented a motorbike to explore the Hoa Lu – Ninh Binh area. The region is famous for its green rice paddies, towering limestone cliffs, and underground caves. Only 6.00US$ per day and an extra dollar for a helmet brought the freedom and flexibility that allowed me the thrilling experience of Hanoi traffic and a much more pleasant drive on the countryside.

Some sections of the roads, especially through smaller villages, were covered with rice straw.

On certain parts, the rice straw was so thick that I couldn’t even see the road surface. I had to slow down to avoid an accident.

After three hours of slow driving, I arrived to Tam Loc, where I hired a boat, which took me along the river to three different caves. They were created by the erosion of cliffs over millions of years.

The caves vary in size, structure, and color. The highlight for me was the second cave, Hai Cave, which I found the most beautiful. I traveled through it by boat, admiring the stalactites hanging from the cave’s dome. I returned to the main dock just in time, before the large tour groups began to arrive.