Panama – Long trip

My Panama travel adventure summary:

Visited: April 1997

Duration of visit: 15 days (total travelling: 60 days)

Capital city: Ciudad de Panama

Population: 4.2 million (2020)

Panama travel blog reading time: 11 minutes

• Exploring Bocas del Toro before it became a prime tourist destination.
• Manhattan of Central America – Ciudad de Panamá.
• The Panama Canal: engineering wonder shaping global transport.
• Finding the love of my life – a Panamanian architect.
• Visiting paradisiac San Blas Islands and experiencing Kuna culture.

In 1997, Panama was part of my American Big Tour, which started in New York City and ended in Buenos Aires 15 months later. I was an experienced backpacker and could communicate in Spanish when I crossed the border from Costa Rica.

Before my Panama travel adventure, the main bucket-list goal was to see the Panama Canal and Panama City. During my two-week trip, I also visited Bocas del Toro and the San Blas Islands. Bocas is a backpacker paradise, while San Blas offers 365 islands and is home to the Kuna people.

In this article I describe the following topics of my trip Panama travel adventure – Long trip: Magnificent Bocas del Toro, Ciudad de Panamá – Manhattan of Central America, Diablo Rojo buses, Panama Canal – the miracle of connecting two oceans, San Blas Islands and Kuna culture.

More articles about my Panama travel adventures are available here:

I spent a lot of time, energy, and money obtaining a visa for Panama. Approval at the Panamanian consulate in San José required authorization from Panama City. I submitted an application, and copies of my previous visas were faxed to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Panama for a 10USD fee.

Three days later, my visa was approved, but I had to pay another 35USD and provide a return ticket. Although I explained to the clerk that I would leave Panama by boat for Colombia, that was not accepted. I had to buy a bus ticket from David to San José, which I never used, as I continued my Panama travel adventure to South America by boat.

I crossed from Costa Rica into Panama on the Caribbean coast and headed straight to Bocas del Toro islands. The archipelago was still off the beaten path before mass tourism expanded. It was only a matter of time before hotels, expensive restaurants, and all-inclusive resorts appear on these islands with about 5,000 inhabitants.

The archipelago has nine main islands, 52 cays, and hundreds of small islets with coral reefs and mangroves. Bocas del Toro was visited by Christopher Columbus in 1502. Today, it possesses one of Central America’s largest rainforest and two national parks.

I stayed in a guesthouse where a local family rented me a room with breakfast. There were many things to do and exciting places to visit, depending on budget. Still halfway to South America, I kept costs low and stayed consistent with my spending. I took a day boat trip to snorkeling spots, including on Isla de Bastimentos.

During my stay, I explored beaches within walking distance of Bocas Town on Isla Colón, met other backpackers, practiced Spanish with locals, and enjoyed fresh food from my host family.

My first encounter with Ciudad de Panamá was unforgettable. Traveling on an overnight bus from David, we arrived in the capital early in the morning. It was still dark at 3:00am. I didn’t want to pay for a hotel for just a few hours, so I waited at the bus terminal until sunrise. As the sun came out and the city came into view, it felt like a dream.

“Where am I? Is this New York? Manhattan?”

Skyscrapers lit by the morning sun contrasted with other Central American capitals, which are dominated by lower-rise buildings.

The downtown skyline of Panama City was an incredible sight. I couldn’t stop admiring it.

I was pleasantly surprised by the city’s modern architecture – locals call it Panamá. Often described as the Manhattan of Central America, it features many skyscrapers over 40 stories and branches of major global banks.

Alongside the development of the city’s new district, numerous projects have focused on renovating and restoring Casco Viejo. The Old Town, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997, has been gradually revived.

Casco Viejo has long been a key transit hub linking the Pacific, Atlantic, and Caribbean. In recent years, it has evolved in a lively district with nightlife, luxury hotels, and fine dining.

The historic district of Panama City was completed in 1673 after the near destruction of Panamá Vieja, offering better protection from pirates. Key landmarks and places to visit include La Catedral Metropolitana, the presidential residence El Palacio de las Garzas, and the National Theatre of Panama.

Many other historical buildings, plazas, and churches are scattered across the area. Back in 1997, I still found Casco Viejo not completely safe to walk around at night.

Public buses in Panama, called Diablos Rojos, are a famous attraction. An exciting ride on one of those classic buses was a must thing to do until it lasted.

In 1997, they were mostly old US school buses with child-sized seats and doors, bought and converted into public transport by local businessmen. Owners painted them in bright, colorful designs featuring celebrities, politicians, religious icons, athletes, and more.

The name Diablos Rojos (Red Devils) does not come from their appearance but from their bad reputation as dangerous buses. Drivers are often aggressive and unruly, frequently ignoring traffic rules and showing little regard for safety.

I experienced their aggressiveness on many occasions. As a driver, whenever I spotted a Diablo Rojo coming from behind or overtaking other vehicles, I kept my distance.

One of the most recognizable features of the Diablo Rojo is its decorative paintings, giving each bus a unique character and attracting passengers.

Another important feature is loud reggaeton music, which originated in Panama and Puerto Rico in the 1980s. Its danceable rhythms mix singing and rapping, often with vulgar lyrics.

In 2013, most Diablos Rojos were phased out and replaced by the safer Metro Bus system. The government paid operators 25,000USD per bus, and offered drivers with fewer traffic violations to drive new Metro buses.

By far Panama’s biggest landmark is the Panama Canal, which connects the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. As an engineering marvel that transformed both Panama and global logistics, it deserves a special section explaining it in detail.

The French first attempted to connect the two oceans. Construction began in 1880 under the leadership of recognized architect Ferdinand de Lesseps, who also built the Suez Canal. But before the end of the century, the project failed and the company went bankrupt. Yellow fever, malaria, and the difficult geography made construction extremely challenging. Excavating a canal at sea level proved technically impossible.

In 1903, Panama separated from Colombia and became independent. The United States supported the process and secured the right to build the canal. More than 75,000 workers spent 10 years and another 400 million USD overcoming nature and connecting two oceans through the artificial Gatun Lake.

One of the key reasons for success was the fight against malaria and yellow fever through medication. Controlling this deadly disease was probably the most positive immediate result of building the canal.

The first ship sailed through the Panama Canal on August 15, 1914. By 2020, more than one million vessels had crossed it.

Until 1977, the canal remained under full US control. That year, the Torrijos–Carter Treaties established the gradual transfer of the canal to Panama. It completed in 2000. The Neutrality Treaty allows the United States to defend the canal and ensure its neutral access for all nations.

The Panama Canal is 80 km long from the Atlantic to the Pacific. Ships take about 8 to 10 hours to cross. With waiting time – 24 hours or more.

Both oceans are essentially at the same level, but ships are raised 26 meters when entering the canal on either side. At that elevation, they travel 38 kilometers across Gatun Lake before being lowered again.

The locks, inaugurated in 1914, are one of the greatest engineering achievements ever. Water flows by gravity from Gatun Lake into the chambers, lifting ships to lake level. It is released to lower them back down to sea level on the other side.

Ships enter large lock chambers measuring 305 meters long and 33 meters wide. Panamax vessels are built to fit these dimensions, leaving only about 50 cm of clearance on each side. By filling or emptying the chambers, ships are raised or lowered around 8 meters per stage. After about eight minutes, gates open and the process repeats in two more chambers.

There are three sets of locks: Gatun on the Atlantic side, Pedro Miguel and Miraflores on the Pacific side.

I visited the Miraflores Locks, where a small observation deck showcases this engineering marvel built nearly 100 years ago. In 1997, I was surprised by the minimal security at the canal visitor checkpoint despite its global importance.

A guide explained the canal’s impressive statistics, history, and operations. I stayed on the platform watching ships pass until I was asked to leave due to the late hour. I remained amazed long after seeing this remarkable achievement that put Panama on the world map.

The archipelago of San Blas is one of the most unique places to visit and one of the highlights of my Panama travel adventure.

The 365 islands, most uninhabited and some used for tourism, are a paradise on earth and home to the Kuna people.

The islands dedicated to visitors are idyllic, with coconut trees, sandy beaches, and turquoise bays, perfect for walking barefoot.

The Kuna are the only indigenous people in the Americas never conquered by Europeans. They have preserved their language, culture, and independence. Although the territory of Guna Yala is part of Panama, they enjoy a high degree of autonomy.

The Kuna have their own laws and government. Their territory is protected under a special regime for land use, construction, and environmental protection.

In 1997, visiting San Blas was a luxury: access required flying to a small airstrip and continuing by boat. The only alternative was a long cargo ship journey or sailing from Colón.

I flew to Puerto Obaldía, the last settlement on Panama’s Atlantic coast near the Colombian border. Beyond it lay dense rainforest, a no-man’s land with routes used by illegal migrants and drug cartels. My only realistic option to continue toward Colombia was by sea. I had no plan, but a lot of patience, waiting for the right opportunity at a fair price. I bought a cold Coke and waited at the immigration office.

The officers were very kind and helpful, but boats to and from Colombia were unpredictable and unreliable. All boats had to register at the immigration office. So, I was in a strategic place to find passage to Colombia and speak with passing captains.

After four hours of patient waiting and unsuccessful negotiations with locals, I noticed a group of tourists with a guide. I explained my situation to the guide. He was willing to take me to Acandí in Colombia, but only under two conditions.

1. All members of the group should approve me to join their group.
2. We will make a stop in San Blas Islands, visit Kuna family, swim on a sandy beach and have lunch there before heading to Acandí.

I quickly convinced the others that I was a low-budget graduate student traveling around Latin America and would appreciate joining them for the rest of the day.

Our visit to a small Kuna village included a short cultural presentation, where the local leader explained their traditions, lifestyle, and livelihoods. The community lives collectively, helping each other and solving problems together with a calm attitude. Although the island had no electricity, I saw some battery-powered radios.

saw some battery-powered radios.

The Kuna mainly live from fishing and selling coconuts, while tourism has become increasingly important. Visitors pay a small fee to the village chief, who uses the money for the community. Women create handmade tapestries with traditional Kuna designs called molas.

Molas are colorful stitched panels made by layering several pieces of cotton fabric and cutting sections away to reveal patterns and colors underneath.

The quality of a mola depends on the number of fabric layers and the fineness of the stitching. Kuna women traditionally wear molas on the front and back of their blouses.

We were allowed to photograph houses, molas, and the surroundings, but not the people.

The Kuna have a unique view of family life. Parents prefer having daughters because, after marriage, the husband moves into the wife’s family home and brings a large dowry. Families with many sons therefore lose property and labor force.

A picnic lunch on an idyllic uninhabited island was the last stop before crossing into Colombia. The tiny island, with its pristine beach and coconut palms, was a perfect ending to my Panama travel adventure.

Panama surprised me positively. In terms of development, it felt more advanced than much of Central America. In 1997, tourism was not a major government focus, although there were many exciting places to visit and interesting things to do beyond the Panama Canal.

In general, Panamanian lifestyle is strongly influenced by the USA due to close ties over the past century. Food, education, wide avenues, Hollywood films, and a capitalist economy are just some of them.

The average temperature in Panama is over 30°C, with extreme heat and humidity. I learned that the heat can be unbearable, and it is unsafe to be in the sun between 10:00am and 4:00pm.