Azerbaijan – 2024

My Azerbaijan travel 2024 summary:

Visited: August 2024

Duration of visit: 4 days (total Azerbaijan: 9 days)

Capital city: Baku

Population: 10.50 million (2024)

Azerbaijan travel blog (2024) reading time: 7 minutes

• Modernization of Baku, turning it into the Dubai of the former Soviet Union.
• Contemporary Baku’s landmarks topped with Formula One Grand Prix.
• Exploring the Gobustan mud volcanoes and Rock Art Cultural Landscape.
• Waiting two days at Alat Port before sailing across the Caspian Sea to Turkmenistan.

In August 2024, I returned to Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan, which served as a convenient starting point for my journey to Turkmenistan. My plan was to travel by ferry from Alat Port, about an hour south of Baku, to Turkmenbashi on the eastern shore of the Caspian Sea. I was impressed by the progress of President Ilham Aliyev’s vision of transforming the country into a modern and tourist-oriented destination.

In this article I describe my second Azerbaijan travel adventure in 2024: modernization and contemporary Baku’s landmarks, exploring Gobustan mud volcanos and Rock Art Cultural Landscape, waiting in Alat port to cross the Caspian Sea.

More articles about my Azerbaijan travel adventures are available here:

Baku felt pleasant to return to after 14 years, as petrodollars financed a major transformation. If in 2010 the renovation of The Old City was ending and the construction of modern districts had just begun.

By 2024 most of the projects were already finished. New attractions and places to visit had been developed, while visitors could also enjoy new activities and things to do.

The capital was preparing to host the Formula One Grand Prix.

The government moved large infrastructure projects to Nagorno-Karabakh, the territory Azerbaijan regained after the war with Armenia.

I first stopped at The Flame Towers, the trio of skyscrapers visible from almost any part of the city. During the day, their glass facades reflect blue tones, while colorful national animations illuminate them at night.

The Flame Towers were inspired by Azerbaijan’s long relationship with fire and represent the eternal fire of modern Baku. Baku’s most prominent landmark overlooks Baku Bay and the Old City, with towers rising 140 to 170 meters high.

I ascended the hill by funicular alongside a few tourists, who were relatively scarce in the city during my stay. Nearby, the city dedicates Martyrs’ Lane to those killed by the Soviet Army in 1990 and the First Nagorno-Karabakh War.

A pleasant walk through Highland Park led me to viewpoints that offer a wonderful panoramic view of the city. I could easily spot the main attractions and highlights of Baku. Baku Crystal Hall, the unfinished State Flag Square, Baku Eye, Caspian Waterfront Mall and Azerbaijan Carpet Museum are located on one side of the corniche, while the opposite end is marked by Crescent Mall Terrace & Park and Baku White City.

The Heydar Aliyev Center is a striking modern landmark in Baku, located on a hill near the convention center.

The elegant curved style structure, designed by Zaha Hadid Architects, contrasts with monumental Soviet style and reflects the futuristic vision of the nation. It consists of a conference room, museum, library, auditorium and exhibition spaces.

The museum displays musical instruments, cars, modern art, traditional attire, sculptures, and carpets in an extravagant architectural setting. In the auditorium, I admired mock-ups of new and renovated projects in 2024.

New and modern shopping malls are not only marked by luxury brands, but also architectural creations. Crescent Mall features an extraordinary vaulted structure nearing completion. 28 Mall Baku offers a wide range of global brands in luxurious boutiques. Deniz Mall, designed like a lotus flower, combines shopping with entertainment, relaxation, and dining.

The Old City hasn’t changed much. Walking through its labyrinth of narrow streets, I got lost among perfectly renovated houses, museums, hotels, residential buildings, and palaces. It took me back to the time when Marco Polo wrote:

“Near the Georgian border there is a spring from which gushes a stream of oil in such abundance that a hundred ships may load there at once. This oil is not good to eat; but it is good for burning and as a salve for men and camels affected with itch or scab.”

I saw more street vendors, a wider range of souvenirs, and new bars and restaurants. Nizami Street, especially Torgovaya, is now a large pedestrian shopping street with embassies, banks, and fashion boutiques.

I was disappointed by the small number of foreign visitors. Although early preparations for the Formula One GP track through downtown suggested that large crowds would soon follow the event.

It seems the plan to turn Baku into the Dubai of the former Soviet Union has been effectively implemented under President Ilham Aliyev.

Police, the army, and private and government security groups keep an eye on everyone and everything. Authorities have set video surveillance to the highest level. On the streets, in parks, malls, museums or public transport, cameras are controlling every single detail.

The police never stopped me, but security officers warned me several times to avoid certain areas around government buildings where walking or taking photos is not allowed.

The Port of Baku, located on the ancient Silk Road, 70 kilometers from the capital, is a prime transport and logistics hub of Eurasia. The location in Alat, completed in 2018, replaced Baku’s original port, which was too small for new development projects.

I had been in contact for weeks with ASCO representatives about ships to Turkmenbashi across the Caspian Sea. However, the information I received before arriving in Baku was very unreliable.

After exploring Baku, ASCO representatives informed me that their vessel Sheki would depart the following afternoon. They advised me to arrive at the ASCO office in Alat Port at 11:00am.

Upon arriving at the main entrance, I began inquiring about ferry tickets. Staff directed me to the Ferry Chart Company booth, a Turkmen shipping operator. Since this was not my original option, I continued to seek information from ASCO staff.

I convinced an indifferent ASCO employee to sell me two tickets for the Sheki vessel for me and my friend Ales. The vendor had no idea when the ship would actually leave the dock. With the tickets in hand, I passed the security checkpoint and accommodated in the lounge.

A large room with 50 seats, air conditioning, a toilet and beds was available only to the two of us. I visited the harbor restaurant and shop to gather more information. I learned that truck drivers often wait days or weeks to board ships or collect cargo bound for Eastern Europe.

I quickly realized that no one could confirm when the ferry Sheki would be ready to sail.

Ales tracked ship movements on MarineTraffic and found our vessel would not sail that day or night. We then found beds in the waiting room and spent the night at the port.

I was calm and relaxed, knowing that only time can solve the problem. The next morning a new employee of ASCO explained to me that the Sheki vessel needed extra maintenance. It would be ready by 8:00pm, when the official departure was scheduled.

We decided to leave the port and explore the nearby attractions: the Gobustan Rock Art Cultural Landscape and mud volcanos. After hard negotiations we hired a Mercedes taxi with a rather young driver who could not communicate in either English or Russian.

Over 50% of mud volcanos in the world are located in Azerbaijan. They are the result of gas and hot water building up under the earth which needs to be released up in the air. During my first Azerbaijan travel adventure in 2010, I visited the Garasu Volcano. This time, I explored smaller mud volcanoes, some up to 8 meters high and ranging from 30 centimeters to 3 meters in diameter.

The Gobustan Rock Art Cultural Landscape covers three areas of a rocky plateau rising from the semi-desert of central Azerbaijan.

I walked along well-trodden paths, observing ancient stone carvings that are unprotected and fading. The rock art depicts prehistoric life, including hunting scenes, rituals, animals, and celestial symbols. The barren landscape with stone piles, a nearby settlement, and the Caspian Sea in the background was magnificent.

I contacted the ASCO representative again, and as expected, he said the Sheki would be delayed. I accepted the refund and chose the more expensive but more reliable Turkmen ship Bagtyyar.

Upon returning to the port, other passengers began arriving in the waiting room, and we concluded the vessel would depart in the evening. However, no one called us to board on Day 2. We spent another night in the waiting room.

The next morning, I walked around the port. Even the hairdresser (off duty for two days) opened his salon and professionally cut and washed my hair.

When Ales and I returned to the waiting room, all the passengers were gone. Security guard told us they had already been taken aboard the ferry. I briefly worried about missing departure after 48 hours of waiting, but another vehicle soon picked us up and took us to immigration.

After long delays and uncertainty, we finally departed Alat Port just before sunset on the third day.

The navigation across the Caspian Sea to Turkmenbashi in Turkmenistan was smooth. The onboard food was simple stuff and other passengers friendly. The cabin was comfortable. The small bathroom offered the luxury of a hot shower, which I greatly appreciated after two days without bathing.

My predictions that the government would make Baku the Dubai of the former Soviet Union has become reality. Mainly Arabic and Russian-speaking visitors enjoy a liberal environment, modern infrastructure, luxury shopping, and strong regional connectivity throughout the year.

Unfortunately, much of the rest of the country is still stuck in time, less developed and widespread poverty.